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Goatskin Leather Tanned with Sumac, the Morocco Way
Morocco leather is goatskin tanned with sumac: light, supple and fine-grained. Andrew Ure (1839) gives the method: bran and lime to loosen the hair, the skin scraped clean, then sewn into a bag, grain outside, and floated in sumac liquor for a day. Oiled and curried, it takes the pebbled grain used for gloves and book covers.
The picture: early 18th-century calf bindings inlaid with panels of coloured morocco.
高级
Two to three weeks
说明
1
1
Soak in bran water
Soak in bran water
Steep the skins a few days in water with bran stirred in, until it ferments. Work them on the beam, soak 12 hours in fresh water and rinse.
此步骤所需材料：
生山羊皮6 个
小麦麸2 公斤
水100 升所需工具：
箍木盆
刮皮木2
2
Lime and dehair
Lime and dehair
Steep them in weak lime water until the hair pulls out easily. Scrape the hair off on the beam with the back of the fleshing knife and wash them in running water.
此步骤所需材料：
熟石灰2 公斤水60 升所需工具：
箍木盆刮皮木
刮肉刀
橡胶手套3
3
Flesh and clean out the lime
Flesh and clean out the lime
Shave off flesh and fat with the fleshing knife and trim the edges. Rub the grain hard with a flat stone to press out lime, then a night and a day in a fresh bran bath.
此步骤所需材料：
小麦麸1 公斤水50 升所需工具：
刮肉刀刮皮木
1000 目磨刀石箍木盆4
4
Sew into bags
Sew into bags
Sew each skin edgewise into a bag with the grain outside, leaving a small opening.
此步骤所需材料：
亚麻线20 m所需工具：
缝衣针5
5
Tan in sumac
Tan in sumac
Fill each bag with strong sumac liquor and close it; float the bags in a tub of the same liquor and keep them moving by hand for four hours. Drain, refill and tan again: about 24 hours in all.
此步骤所需材料：
盐肤木叶（干）5.4 公斤水60 升所需工具：
箍木盆
等臂天平6
6
Open, rinse and dry
Open, rinse and dry
Unstitch the skins, rinse them, beat them soft, drain them and hang them to dry. While still damp, sponge a thin film of linseed oil on the grain so they stay glossy and do not go horny.
此步骤所需材料：
亚麻籽油0.2 升所需工具：
海绵7
7
Curry and grain
Curry and grain
Thin the flesh side where needed and smooth the damp skin. Then work it on the flesh side with a cork-faced board, in several directions, to raise the pebbled grain (Ure: the curriers' pommel faced with cork).
所需工具：
刮肉刀
软木板8
8
Sumach for the batch
Sumach for the batch
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9
9
Limits
Limits
The process and the sumac rate are Ure's; we leave out his dyeing (cochineal, iron, indigo) and give the undyed leather. Bath volumes are ours.
材料
7- 6 个占位符
- 2 公斤占位符
- 270 升占位符
- 2 公斤占位符
- 20 m占位符
- 5.4 公斤占位符
- 0.2 升占位符
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