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After the Tank: Passivation, Sealing and the Bake
Charlie

Created by

Charlie

24. September 2026DE
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After the Tank: Passivation, Sealing and the Bake

The part coming out of the plating tank is not finished. Several things still have to happen, and each one is the reason a particular kind of failure does not occur later. **Rinsing and drying** stop staining. **Passivation** puts a thin conversion film over a reactive coating like zinc. **Sealing** closes the pores of an anodised layer. **Baking** drives hydrogen out of high-strength steel before it cracks. None of them changes how the part looks on the day, and every one of them changes how it looks in a year.
Intermediate
3 hours

Instructions

1

Rinse, dry, and do it quickly

**Rinse immediately and thoroughly**, in several changes, finishing with distilled or deionised water. Plating solution left in a crevice continues to act on the part, and dried-on salts are both a stain and a corrosion site. **Dry fully and fast.** Warm air, or a hot-water dip followed by air — a part lifted from hot water carries enough heat to dry itself, which is why the last rinse in a plating line is often hot. **Water spots are a real defect**, not a cosmetic one. Where a droplet dries it leaves whatever was dissolved in it, concentrated at that point. **Blow out blind holes and crevices.** Solution trapped in a hole weeps out over the following days and streaks the part. On an assembly it corrodes from the inside where nobody can see it. **Handle the finished part with gloves too.** A fingerprint on fresh zinc or silver etches into it over weeks — the salts in skin are corrosive to both — and it is not removable afterwards.

Materials for this step:

Distilled WaterDistilled Water2 pieces

Tools needed:

Borosilicate BeakerBorosilicate Beaker
Chemical-Resistant GlovesChemical-Resistant Gloves
Thermometer - LabThermometer - Lab
2

Passivation: a film on top of the film

**Zinc corrodes quickly on its own.** Fresh zinc plating left bare develops white powdery corrosion — white rust — within weeks in damp air. It is doing its job, sacrificially, far faster than anyone wants. **A chromate or chromium-free conversion coating** is applied immediately after plating: a brief dip that grows a thin, gel-like film over the zinc, which slows its corrosion by an order of magnitude and self-heals small scratches. The familiar colours of plated fasteners are this film: **clear or blue** (thinnest), **yellow or iridescent** (thicker, more protective), **black**, and **olive drab** (thickest). The colour is a direct indication of how much protection there is, which is unusually convenient. **Hexavalent chromium passivation is being replaced.** It works extremely well and it is a confirmed carcinogen and is restricted in most jurisdictions. Trivalent chromium and chromium-free alternatives are now standard, and a maker has no reason to use the hexavalent chemistry. **Stainless steel is passivated too**, with nitric or citric acid, to dissolve free iron left on the surface by machining and to let the chromium oxide film form properly. It is not a coating; it is the removal of what was preventing the natural film.

Materials for this step:

Mild Steel PlateMild Steel Plate1 piece

Tools needed:

Borosilicate BeakerBorosilicate Beaker
Chemical-Resistant GlovesChemical-Resistant Gloves
Chemical Splash GogglesChemical Splash Goggles
3

Anodising is not plating, and it must be sealed

**Anodising grows an oxide out of the metal rather than depositing one onto it.** The aluminium part is the ANODE — the opposite of plating — and the oxide forms by converting the surface of the part itself. Three consequences follow: **It cannot peel**, because there is no interface to fail at. The oxide grades continuously into the metal. **The part grows and shrinks at once.** About half the oxide thickness is above the original surface and half below, so a 20 micron anodised layer adds about 10 microns to the dimension. That matters on a fitted part. **The fresh layer is porous** — a dense array of fine tubes — which is why it takes dye so well and why an anodised part can be coloured by simply dipping it in dye before sealing. **Sealing closes the pores**, and it is not optional: an unsealed layer holds dirt, loses its dye and corrodes. Boiling water or steam hydrates the oxide so it swells and closes; a nickel acetate seal does the same more durably; a cold seal uses a nickel fluoride solution. **Seal immediately after dyeing.** The window is short, and an unsealed layer left overnight has already picked up contamination into its pores.

Materials for this step:

Sulfuric Acid - 50%Sulfuric Acid - 50%1 piece
Distilled WaterDistilled Water1 piece

Tools needed:

Adjustable Bench Power SupplyAdjustable Bench Power Supply
Borosilicate BeakerBorosilicate Beaker
Thermometer - LabThermometer - Lab
Chemical-Resistant GlovesChemical-Resistant Gloves
4

The hydrogen bake, and when it is mandatory

Acid pickling and plating both produce hydrogen at the steel surface, and some of it dissolves into the metal. In high-strength steel it collects at defects and causes **delayed brittle fracture** — the part is fine on the day and snaps hours or weeks later under a load it should carry easily. **It is a real and well-documented failure mode**, and it is why plated high-tensile fasteners carry a baking requirement. **Bake at 190 to 220 C for 4 to 24 hours**, depending on the strength and the section, and **within a few hours of plating** — the hydrogen has to be driven out before it has time to accumulate where it does damage. **It is mandatory above about 1000 MPa tensile strength**, which covers high-tensile fasteners, springs, and anything hardened and tempered low. Below about 800 MPa it is not generally required. **The coating has to survive the bake**, which is another reason zinc is passivated AFTER baking rather than before — chromate films are damaged by the temperature. **Electroless nickel is also baked**, for a different reason: heat treatment at around 400 C precipitates nickel phosphide and takes the hardness from about 500 to over 1000 HV, which is most of the point of using it on a wear surface.

Materials for this step:

Mild Steel PlateMild Steel Plate1 piece

Tools needed:

Thermometer - LabThermometer - Lab

Materials

3

Tools Required

5

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