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Goatskin Leather Tanned with Sumac, the Morocco Way
Tex

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Tex

14. octubre 2026FO
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Goatskin Leather Tanned with Sumac, the Morocco Way

Morocco leather is goatskin tanned with sumac: light, supple and fine-grained. Andrew Ure (1839) gives the method: bran and lime to loosen the hair, the skin scraped clean, then sewn into a bag, grain outside, and floated in sumac liquor for a day. Oiled and curried, it takes the pebbled grain used for gloves and book covers. The picture: early 18th-century calf bindings inlaid with panels of coloured morocco.
Avanzado
Two to three weeks

Instrucciones

1

Soak in bran water

Steep the skins a few days in water with bran stirred in, until it ferments. Work them on the beam, soak 12 hours in fresh water and rinse.

Materiales para este paso:

Piel cruda de cabraPiel cruda de cabra6 piezas
Salvado de trigoSalvado de trigo2 kg
AguaAgua100 litros

Herramientas necesarias:

Tina de maderaTina de madera
Caballete de descarnarCaballete de descarnar
2

Lime and dehair

Steep them in weak lime water until the hair pulls out easily. Scrape the hair off on the beam with the back of the fleshing knife and wash them in running water.

Materiales para este paso:

Cal apagadaCal apagada2 kg
AguaAgua60 litros

Herramientas necesarias:

Tina de maderaTina de madera
Caballete de descarnarCaballete de descarnar
Cuchillo de descarnarCuchillo de descarnar
Guantes de gomaGuantes de goma
3

Flesh and clean out the lime

Shave off flesh and fat with the fleshing knife and trim the edges. Rub the grain hard with a flat stone to press out lime, then a night and a day in a fresh bran bath.

Materiales para este paso:

Salvado de trigoSalvado de trigo1 kg
AguaAgua50 litros

Herramientas necesarias:

Cuchillo de descarnarCuchillo de descarnar
Caballete de descarnarCaballete de descarnar
Piedra de afilar de grano 1000Piedra de afilar de grano 1000
Tina de maderaTina de madera
4

Sew into bags

Sew each skin edgewise into a bag with the grain outside, leaving a small opening.

Materiales para este paso:

Hilo de linoHilo de lino20 m

Herramientas necesarias:

Aguja de coserAguja de coser
5

Tan in sumac

Fill each bag with strong sumac liquor and close it; float the bags in a tub of the same liquor and keep them moving by hand for four hours. Drain, refill and tan again: about 24 hours in all.

Materiales para este paso:

Hojas de zumaque (secas)Hojas de zumaque (secas)5.4 kg
AguaAgua60 litros

Herramientas necesarias:

Tina de maderaTina de madera
Balanza de platillosBalanza de platillos
6

Open, rinse and dry

Unstitch the skins, rinse them, beat them soft, drain them and hang them to dry. While still damp, sponge a thin film of linseed oil on the grain so they stay glossy and do not go horny.

Materiales para este paso:

Aceite de linazaAceite de linaza0.2 litro

Herramientas necesarias:

EsponjaEsponja
7

Curry and grain

Thin the flesh side where needed and smooth the damp skin. Then work it on the flesh side with a cork-faced board, in several directions, to raise the pebbled grain (Ure: the curriers' pommel faced with cork).

Herramientas necesarias:

Cuchillo de descarnarCuchillo de descarnar
Plancha de corchoPlancha de corcho
8

Sumach for the batch

Cargando el cuaderno de Jupyter…
9

Limits

The process and the sumac rate are Ure's; we leave out his dyeing (cochineal, iron, indigo) and give the undyed leather. Bath volumes are ours.

Materiales

7

Herramientas requeridas

9

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