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Equilateral Glass Prism: Sawn, Ground and Pitch-Polished
A prism splits white light into its colours, so its faces must be optically flat and its angles true. This is how the US arsenals ground prisms in 1918, as F. E. Wright recorded for the Ordnance Department in 1921: saw a blank from optical glass, rough-grind it on iron disks, set a batch of prisms in plaster, fine-grind, and polish on pitch with rouge. Wright's worked example is a right-angle prism; an equilateral prism has three 60° angles, made the same way.
The picture: blocking prisms for rough grinding at Frankford Arsenal (Wright 1921, Fig. 77, public domain).
Avanzato
2-3 days
Istruzioni
1
1
Saw out the blank
Saw out the blank
Saw a triangular blank from a block of optical glass with a diamond saw, using kerosene as lubricant. Leave several millimetres extra on each face for grinding.
Materiali per questo passaggio:
Vetro ottico1 as requiredStrumenti necessari:
Sega diamantata
Cherosene
Calibro digitale da 6 pollici
Occhiali di sicurezza2
2
Rough-grind the faces
Rough-grind the faces
Grind one triangular end flat on a rotating iron disk with 90 or 150 mesh grit. Then rough out the three side faces at right angles to it, checking the 60° angles with an angle gauge.
Strumenti necessari:
Disco di rettifica in ferro
Calibro angolare3
3
Grind the ends in a batch
Grind the ends in a batch
Wax 20 or more prisms by their ground ends onto a heated iron disk and grind the other ends together: 90, 150, then 220 mesh, then smoothing grit. Change grit only when the surface is free of scratches. Regrind to the set thickness.
Strumenti necessari:
Disco di rettifica in ferro
Paraffina
Cera d'api
Piastra riscaldante
Calibro digitale da 6 pollici4
4
Block the prisms in plaster
Block the prisms in plaster
Set the prisms face down in melted paraffin on a flat iron disk and coat their backs with beeswax. Clamp a ring round them, fill with plaster of Paris and a little Portland cement (10 : 1), and let it harden about 16 hours. Cut the plaster back 1/8 in from the prisms and give it two coats of shellac.
Strumenti necessari:
Piastra riscaldante
Paraffina
Cera d'api
Gesso da presa
Cemento Portland
Cera d'api in pastiglie5
5
Fine-grind
Fine-grind
Grind the block on a slightly convex plate with wet flour emery (the part that settles out of water between 10 and 60 minutes). After five minutes check with a magnifier: the faces should have an even velvet finish, slightly hollow by less than 0.001 in.
Strumenti necessari:
Disco di rettifica in ferro
Lente da orologiaio6
6
Polish on pitch
Polish on pitch
Pour strained pitch with a little rosin 1/4 in deep on an iron tool and cut crossed grooves 1/8 in wide, 1 in apart. Press it true with a rouge-wetted flat. Polish the block with creamy rouge and water on the machine, usually 4–8 hours, running nearly dry at the end.
Strumenti necessari:
Pece di catrame di legno
Colofonia di pino
Rosso da gioielliere
Macchina per lucidatura ottica7
7
Test for flatness
Test for flatness
Lay an optical flat on each face and look at the Newton colours in sodium light (salt in a Bunsen flame). Straight bands to the edge, or one colour over the whole face, mean it is flat.
Strumenti necessari:
Piano ottico (campione)
Becco Bunsen
Sale
Lente da orologiaio8
8
Free, clean, check the angle, repeat
Free, clean, check the angle, repeat
Break the plaster away, clean the prisms with benzene and check each angle with the angle gauge. Correct by hand on a flat tool with smoothing grit. Repeat blocking and polishing for every face, smallest face first.
Strumenti necessari:
Martello
Benzene
Calibro angolare
Disco di rettifica in ferroMateriali
1- 1 as requiredSegnaposto
Strumenti richiesti
23- Segnaposto
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