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Sew-In Interfacing: Cotton Shrunk Overnight Before Cutting
The cloth basted inside a collar or coat front to give it body is only useful if it has been shrunk first: otherwise, as Butterick's New Dressmaker (1921) warns, it "will shrink on the first damp day and will draw in and wrinkle the coat". This is the book's sponging method: roll the cloth up with a damp muslin overnight, press it dry, then cut it by the pattern.
Butterick names soft canvas, cotton serge or cambric for wool, and butchers' linen, cambric or muslin for linen; ours is cotton muslin. The picture: the book's Ill. 102.
Mwanzo
Overnight + 30 minutes
Maagizo
1
1
Choose the cloth
Choose the cloth
For wool: soft pliable canvas, cotton serge or cambric. For linen: butchers' linen, cambric or muslin. For silk: cotton serge, sateen or cambric. Ours: cotton muslin.
Vifaa kwa hatua hii:
Kitambaa cha Muslini ya Pamba1 kipande2
2
Clip the selvedge
Clip the selvedge
Cut off the selvedge, or clip it at intervals, so it cannot pull the cloth as it shrinks.
Zana zinazohitajika:
Mkasi3
3
Lay it out
Lay it out
Lay the cloth face down on the table over an ironing blanket. Ours: the ironing board.
Zana zinazohitajika:
Ubao uliotandikwa wa kupigia pasi4
4
Damp the sponging cloth
Damp the sponging cloth
Wet a strip of heavy unbleached muslin, as wide as your cloth and half as long, in cold water and wring it out.
Zana zinazohitajika:
Kitambaa cha musulini
Maji5
5
Fold and roll
Fold and roll
Spread it without wrinkles over half the cloth, fold the other half over it, and roll the two up tightly together.
Zana zinazohitajika:
Kitambaa cha musulini6
6
Leave it overnight
Leave it overnight
Leave the roll overnight, covered with a piece of muslin and some newspapers to keep the moisture in.
Zana zinazohitajika:
Kitambaa cha musulini
Gazeti (kitandiko)7
7
Unroll and press dry
Unroll and press dry
In the morning unroll it, pressing the cloth dry on the wrong side as you go.
Zana zinazohitajika:
Pasi ya NguoUbao uliotandikwa wa kupigia pasi8
8
Cut by the pattern
Cut by the pattern
Cut the interfacing by the garment pattern. For a strictly tailored collar, cut it 3/8 inch smaller than the pattern at all edges. Baste it to the wrong side of the garment.
Zana zinazohitajika:
MkasiVifaa
1- 1 kipandeKishikilia Nafasi
Mchoro huu unatengeneza
Blueprint zinazohusiana
Blueprint hizi zinashiriki maarifa — mbinu, vifaa au kanuni
CC0 Umma Wote
Mchoro huu umetolewa chini ya CC0. Uko huru kunakili, kubadilisha, kusambaza, na kutumia kazi hii kwa madhumuni yoyote, bila kuomba ruhusa.
Saidia Mtengenezaji kwa kununua bidhaa kupitia Mchoro wao ambapo wanapata Kamisheni ya Mtengenezaji iliyowekwa na Wachuuzi, au unda marudio mapya ya Mchoro huu na uiunganishe kama kiungo katika Mchoro wako kuchangia mapato.