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Equilateral Glass Prism: Sawn, Ground and Pitch-Polished
A prism splits white light into its colours, so its faces must be optically flat and its angles true. This is how the US arsenals ground prisms in 1918, as F. E. Wright recorded for the Ordnance Department in 1921: saw a blank from optical glass, rough-grind it on iron disks, set a batch of prisms in plaster, fine-grind, and polish on pitch with rouge. Wright's worked example is a right-angle prism; an equilateral prism has three 60° angles, made the same way.
The picture: blocking prisms for rough grinding at Frankford Arsenal (Wright 1921, Fig. 77, public domain).
Ilọsíwájú
2-3 days
Ìlànà
1
1
Saw out the blank
Saw out the blank
Saw a triangular blank from a block of optical glass with a diamond saw, using kerosene as lubricant. Leave several millimetres extra on each face for grinding.
Àwọn ohun èlò fún ìgbésẹ̀ yìí:
Gilasi Opitika1 as requiredÀwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:
Ayùn Dáyámọ́ndì
Kẹ́rọ́sínì
Òṣùwọ̀n Kálípà Díjítà Ìnṣì 6
Gíláàsì ààbò2
2
Rough-grind the faces
Rough-grind the faces
Grind one triangular end flat on a rotating iron disk with 90 or 150 mesh grit. Then rough out the three side faces at right angles to it, checking the 60° angles with an angle gauge.
Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:
Àwo Lílọ Irin
Wọ̀n Igun3
3
Grind the ends in a batch
Grind the ends in a batch
Wax 20 or more prisms by their ground ends onto a heated iron disk and grind the other ends together: 90, 150, then 220 mesh, then smoothing grit. Change grit only when the surface is free of scratches. Regrind to the set thickness.
Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:
Àwo Lílọ Irin
Ìdí parafíìnì
Ìdí Oyin
Pátákó Gbígbóná
Òṣùwọ̀n Kálípà Díjítà Ìnṣì 64
4
Block the prisms in plaster
Block the prisms in plaster
Set the prisms face down in melted paraffin on a flat iron disk and coat their backs with beeswax. Clamp a ring round them, fill with plaster of Paris and a little Portland cement (10 : 1), and let it harden about 16 hours. Cut the plaster back 1/8 in from the prisms and give it two coats of shellac.
Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:
Pátákó Gbígbóná
Ìdí parafíìnì
Ìdí Oyin
Pilasita ti Paris
Símẹ́ǹtì Portland
Èròjà Ìdí Oyin5
5
Fine-grind
Fine-grind
Grind the block on a slightly convex plate with wet flour emery (the part that settles out of water between 10 and 60 minutes). After five minutes check with a magnifier: the faces should have an even velvet finish, slightly hollow by less than 0.001 in.
Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:
Àwo Lílọ Irin
Lúpù Ìgbéga6
6
Polish on pitch
Polish on pitch
Pour strained pitch with a little rosin 1/4 in deep on an iron tool and cut crossed grooves 1/8 in wide, 1 in apart. Press it true with a rouge-wetted flat. Polish the block with creamy rouge and water on the machine, usually 4–8 hours, running nearly dry at the end.
Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:
Ọ̀dà igi tí ó le
Ọ̀dà igi paini
Pupa ìdán alágbẹ̀dẹ wúrà
Ẹ̀rọ Dídán Opitika7
7
Test for flatness
Test for flatness
Lay an optical flat on each face and look at the Newton colours in sodium light (salt in a Bunsen flame). Straight bands to the edge, or one colour over the whole face, mean it is flat.
Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:
Ojú pẹ̀lẹ́bẹ́ optiki (ìtọ́kasí)
Ọ̀gọ̀ Bunsen
Iyọ̀
Lúpù Ìgbéga8
8
Free, clean, check the angle, repeat
Free, clean, check the angle, repeat
Break the plaster away, clean the prisms with benzene and check each angle with the angle gauge. Correct by hand on a flat tool with smoothing grit. Repeat blocking and polishing for every face, smallest face first.
Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:
Òòlù
Benzene
Wọ̀n Igun
Àwo Lílọ IrinÀwọn ohun-èlò
1- 1 as requiredÀyè
Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tó nílò
23- Àyè
- Àyè
- Àyè
- Àyè
- Àyè
- Àyè
- Àyè
- Àyè
- Àyè
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