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Moto, the Sake Starter: Steamed Rice, Koji and Water Fermented Cold for Fourteen Days (Itami, after Rein 1889)
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Charlie

31. Oṣù Kẹwà 2026DE
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Moto, the Sake Starter: Steamed Rice, Koji and Water Fermented Cold for Fourteen Days (Itami, after Rein 1889)

Old sake brewers added no bought yeast. They made a small, cold mash first, the moto, and let it ferment for two weeks: the koji turns starch to sugar, and the yeast that settles in it grows strong in the cold. The finished moto, sour, bitter and alcoholic, seeds the main brew. Result: moto, 3 to 14 % alcohol (Nishinomiya 10.5 %). Source: J. J. Rein, The Industries of Japan (1889), pp. 98-99, the brewers of Itami. Picture drawn by Youblob.
Ilọsíwájú
14 days

Ìlànà

1

Steam the rice

On the third or fourth day of koji-making, steam hulled rice and spread it on mats until the next morning. Ours: steam it over a pot.

Àwọn ohun èlò fún ìgbésẹ̀ yìí:

Ìrẹsì Japan olóhóró kúkúrúÌrẹsì Japan olóhóró kúkúrú0.5 koku

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Ìkòkò ŃláÌkòkò Ńlá
Koríko ìrẹsìKoríko ìrẹsì
2

Make the porridge

Mix 0.5 koku steamed rice with 0.2 koku koji and 0.6 koku water (by weight rice 10, koji 4, water 12). Divide it among six flat 100-litre tubs, each about one-fifth full.

Àwọn ohun èlò fún ìgbésẹ̀ yìí:

Ìrẹsì koji (Aspergillus oryzae)Ìrẹsì koji (Aspergillus oryzae)0.2 koku
OmiOmi0.6 koku

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Àwokòtò igiÀwokòtò igi
3

Knead, rest, stir cold

Knead by hand into a stiff paste for 2 hours, then leave it 24 hours; it thins. For several days stir it often with a paddle (kai) at the outside temperature, 0-10 C. It turns sweet and milky, then starts to give gas.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Ọ̀pá igi gígùn fún rírúỌ̀pá igi gígùn fún rírú
Ẹ̀rọ Ìwọ̀n OoruẸ̀rọ Ìwọ̀n Ooru
4

Gather and rest

Within six days pour the tubs, three at a time, into a fermenting vat of about 6 hl and leave it quiet one day.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Àwokòtò igiÀwokòtò igi
5

Warm to day 14

Wrap the vat in straw mats. Sink a closed tub of boiling water in the mash and move it about; renew it about every 12 hours, as much as the heat needs, until day 14. The mash rises to about 25 C.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Àwokòtò igiÀwokòtò igi
Ìkòkò ŃláÌkòkò Ńlá
Koríko ìrẹsìKoríko ìrẹsì
Ẹ̀rọ Ìwọ̀n OoruẸ̀rọ Ìwọ̀n Ooru
6

Cool and check

When the gas slackens and the taste turns from sweet to sour and bitter with a clear smell of alcohol, put the mash back in the flat tubs to cool slowly.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Àwokòtò igiÀwokòtò igi

Àwọn ohun-èlò

3

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tó nílò

5

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