IṢẸ́ ỌNÀ
ẸWÀ ÀTI ÌLERA
IṢẸ́ ỌWỌ́
ÀṢÀ ÀTI ÌTÀN
ÌṢERÉ
ÀYÍKÁ
OÚNJẸ ÀTI OHUN MÍMU
REVERSE ENGINEERING
SÁYẸ́ǸSÌ
ERÉ ÌDÁRAYÁ
ÌMỌ̀-Ẹ̀RỌ
ÀWỌN OHUN WÍWỌ̀
Casting a Pewter Spoon in a Soapstone Mould — Low-Temperature Metal Casting
Pewter — an alloy of roughly 92% tin with small amounts of antimony and copper — melts at just 230°C, making it the most accessible metal for casting. Medieval spoon-makers carved two-part moulds from soapstone, poured molten pewter, and finished the castings with files and burnishing. The result is a bright, food-safe utensil that lasts generations. This blueprint covers carving the soapstone mould, melting the pewter over a simple charcoal fire, casting, and finishing.
Àárín
4-6 hours
Ìlànà
1
1
Select the soapstone
Select the soapstone
Choose a block of soapstone (steatite) at least 5 cm thick, 10 cm wide, and 25 cm long — enough for a full spoon mould in two halves. Soapstone carves easily with hand tools and withstands the heat of molten pewter without cracking.
Àwọn ohun èlò fún ìgbésẹ̀ yìí:
Bulọ́ọ̀kù òkúta ọṣẹ1 ẹyọ2
2
Flatten the mould faces
Flatten the mould faces
Cut the soapstone block in half lengthwise to create two matching halves. Sand the cut faces flat against a sheet of coarse sandpaper on a flat surface. The two halves must mate perfectly with no gaps — any space between them will leak molten metal.
3
3
Draw the spoon pattern
Draw the spoon pattern
Draw the outline of a spoon on the flat face of one half — an oval bowl about 5 cm wide tapering into a handle about 1.5 cm wide and 12 cm long. Include a funnel-shaped pouring gate at the top of the handle and two small air vents at the edges of the bowl.
4
4
Carve the bowl cavity
Carve the bowl cavity
Using a small gouge and knife, carve the spoon bowl to a depth of about 3-4 mm. Work carefully — the cavity surface becomes the casting surface. Smooth with fine sandpaper. Carve the handle channel to about 2-3 mm deep.
Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:
Ìgbá igi (gouge)
Ọ̀bẹ Sìlóìdì5
5
Carve the matching half
Carve the matching half
Press the carved half against the flat second half and trace the outline. Carve a matching cavity in the second half to the same depth. When the two halves are pressed together, the combined cavity should form the full three-dimensional spoon shape.
6
6
Carve alignment keys and pour gate
Carve alignment keys and pour gate
Drill or carve two small conical registration holes in one half and matching pegs in the other — these ensure the halves align precisely every time. Carve the pouring gate (a funnel channel leading to the handle top) and thin air vent channels from the bowl edges to the mould edge.
7
7
Pre-heat the mould
Pre-heat the mould
Clamp the two mould halves together with wire or C-clamps. Place the assembled mould near the fire to warm gradually to about 100°C. A cold mould causes the pewter to freeze before filling the cavity completely.
8
8
Melt the pewter
Melt the pewter
Place pewter ingots or scrap pewter in a small steel ladle or crucible over a charcoal fire or gas burner. Pewter melts at approximately 230°C — it flows like water when ready. Skim any oxide skin from the surface with a steel rod.
Àwọn ohun èlò fún ìgbésẹ̀ yìí:
Ìdìwọ̀n pewutà200 gÀwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:
Ìkòkò ìyọ́ irin
Ẹmú Ìkòkò Ìyọ́9
9
Pour the casting
Pour the casting
Hold the pre-heated mould vertically with the pour gate at the top. Pour the molten pewter in a steady stream into the gate until metal appears at the air vents. This confirms the cavity is full. Set the mould down on a heat-safe surface.
10
10
Cool and open the mould
Cool and open the mould
Allow the casting to cool for 5-10 minutes. Pewter solidifies quickly. Remove the clamps and gently pry the mould halves apart. The spoon casting should lift out cleanly. If it sticks, tap the back of the mould gently.
11
11
Remove the gate and flash
Remove the gate and flash
Cut off the pouring gate sprue and air vent sprues with tin snips or a hacksaw. File down the parting line flash — the thin fin of metal that seeped between the mould halves. Pewter files easily with a standard metal file.
Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:
Àkójọ Ìfá Kékeré12
12
Shape and refine the spoon
Shape and refine the spoon
Use files and scrapers to refine the bowl curve, flatten the handle, and round all edges. The spoon should feel comfortable in the hand with no sharp edges. Sand progressively from 220 to 600 grit for a smooth surface.
13
13
Burnish to a bright finish
Burnish to a bright finish
Polish the spoon with fine steel wool or a cloth buffing wheel. Pewter takes a beautiful soft lustre when burnished. For a mirror finish, use metal polishing compound on a cloth. The finished spoon is food-safe and ready to use — pewter does not tarnish like silver.
Àwọn ohun-èlò
2- 1 ẹyọÀyè
- 200 gÀyè
Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tó nílò
5- Àyè
Àwọn Ohun Èlò Ìtọ́nisọ́nà Tí A So Pọ̀
Ìtọ́nisọ́nà yìí ń ṣe
Blueprint tó jọra
Àwọn blueprint wọ̀nyí pín ìmọ̀ — ọ̀nà, ohun-èlò tàbí ìlànà
CC0 Àgbègbè Gbogbogbò
Blueprint yìí ti jáde lábẹ́ CC0. O lè ṣe àdàkọ, yí padà, pín, àti lò láìsí ìyọ̀ǹda.
Ṣàtìlẹ́yìn Olùṣẹ́dá nípa rírà àwọn ọjà nipasẹ̀ Blueprint wọn Ẹ̀san Olùṣẹ́dá tí àwọn Olùtajà gbé kalẹ̀, tàbí ṣẹ̀dá àtúnṣe tuntun ti Blueprint yìí kí o sì fi sínú Blueprint rẹ gẹ́gẹ́ bí ìsopọ̀ láti pín owó-wíwọlé.