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Silkworm Cocoon Harvesting and Silk Reeling Preparation — From Sericulture to Raw Silk Material
English
MasterDragon

Created by

MasterDragon

22. April 2026CN
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Silkworm Cocoon Harvesting and Silk Reeling Preparation — From Sericulture to Raw Silk Material

Detailed explanation of the harvesting process of silkworm (Bombyx mori) cocoons: identifying mature cocoons, timely cocoon collection, pupae killing treatment, and drying and storage. This is the first step in the silk production chain — from live cocoons to dried cocoon raw materials ready for silk reeling. China is the birthplace of sericulture, with a history of silkworm farming exceeding 5,000 years.

Intermediate
2-3 days

Instructions

1

Understanding the Life Cycle of Silkworms

The life cycle of silkworms (Bombyx mori) is: egg → larva (silkworm) → pupa → adult (moth). The larval stage lasts approximately 25-30 days and is divided into five instars. At the end of the fifth instar, the silkworm body becomes transparent and shiny (mature silkworm) and begins to spin silk and form cocoons. From the start of silk spinning to cocoon completion takes approximately 2-3 days.

2

Identify mature silkworm characteristics

Mature silkworms ready to spin cocoons display the following characteristics: the body shortens, becomes semi-translucent, the thorax rises slightly, they stop eating, and they crawl around searching for a cocoon-spinning location. The body color changes from milky white to slightly yellowish. When these signs appear, the mounting frames (cocoon-spinning frames) need to be prepared.

3

Prepare the mounting frames

Mounting frames are the structures on which silkworms spin their cocoons. The traditional method uses straw bundles called grass dragons, while the modern method uses plastic grid frames. Each cell in the grid frame is approximately 4x3 cm, accommodating one silkworm per cell. Place the frames upright and maintain good ventilation.

Materials for this step:

Cocooning Frame (Plastic Grid)Cocooning Frame (Plastic Grid)5 pieces
4

Placing on mountages (transferring mature silkworms to mountages)

Gently place mature silkworms one by one onto the mountages with your hand. Place one silkworm in each compartment. The silkworm will automatically crawl into the compartment and begin spinning silk. Be careful not to place them too densely—two silkworms in the same compartment will produce a double cocoon, which has poor quality and is not suitable for silk reeling.

Tools needed:

Soft Tweezers or ChopsticksSoft Tweezers or Chopsticks
5

Maintain the cocoon-spinning environment

During the cocoon-spinning period, maintain room temperature at 24-26 degrees Celsius and relative humidity at 60-70%. Ensure good ventilation but avoid direct drafts. Keep lighting even and slightly dim. Excessively high temperature or humidity causes irregular cocoon shapes and poor silk quality. The cocoon-spinning process lasts 2-3 days.

Tools needed:

ThermometerThermometer
HygrometerHygrometer
6

Determine cocoon completion

On the 6th-7th day after cocoon formation (counted from the time of mounting), gently shake the cocoon. If you hear a rustling sound of the pupa rolling inside, it indicates that the pupa has formed and the cocoon can be harvested. If no sound is heard, wait another 1-2 days. Harvesting cocoons too early will damage the pupa that has not completely transformed.

7

Harvest the cocoons

Carefully remove the silkworm cocoons from the mounting frames. Remove the loose silk on the outer layer of the cocoon (cocoon floss) but do not damage the cocoon body. The floss can be used separately (silk wadding). Each cocoon weighs approximately 1.5-2.5 grams, of which raw silk constitutes about one-third.
8

Cocoon grading and selection

Cocoons are classified by quality into first-grade cocoons, second-grade cocoons, and third-grade cocoons. First-grade cocoons: regular elliptical shape, thick cocoon layer, uniform color (white or light yellow), no stains. Second-grade cocoons: slightly irregular shape or minor stains. Third-grade cocoons: double cocoons, thin-shell cocoons, yellow-spotted cocoons——these are not suitable for silk reeling but can be used for silk floss.

Tools needed:

Sorting TraySorting Tray
9

The necessity of stifling the pupae

The pupa continues developing inside the cocoon and will emerge as a moth in about 10 days, biting through the cocoon to exit. A pierced cocoon has broken filaments and cannot be reeled into long thread. Therefore, the pupae must be stifled (killed) before emergence to keep the cocoon silk intact.
10

Sun-drying stifling method

Spread the cocoons in a single layer on bamboo trays and expose them to intense sunlight for 2-3 days. Temperature must reach above 40 degrees C. Turn them every 3-4 hours to ensure even exposure. Bring them indoors at night to avoid moisture. This is the most traditional and economical stifling method, suitable for small-batch production.

Tools needed:

Bamboo Drying TrayBamboo Drying Tray
11

Oven-drying method (alternative)

If weather does not permit sun-drying, a drying room can be used. Temperature is applied in two stages: first 80-90 degrees C for 2 hours to kill the pupae, then reduced to 50-60 degrees C for 6-8 hours for drying. Temperature must not exceed 100 degrees C, or the sericin will denature, making reeling difficult.

Tools needed:

Drying Oven or Drying RoomDrying Oven or Drying Room
12

Verify stifling success

Cut open a few cocoons with scissors to inspect. Successfully stifled pupae are shrunken, hardened, and dark brown in color. If the pupa is still soft or contains liquid, further drying treatment is needed. Incomplete stifling leads to pupal rot during storage, contaminating the silk quality.

Tools needed:

ScissorsScissors
13

Weighing Record

Weigh the total weight of dried cocoons. After drying fresh cocoons, the weight decreases by approximately 50-55% (mainly due to moisture loss from pupae). Record data such as variety, yield, and cocoon rate to provide reference for the next batch of sericulture. One sheet of silkworm seed (approximately 25,000 silkworms) can produce approximately 40-50 kg of fresh cocoons.

Tools needed:

Kitchen ScaleKitchen Scale
14

Store the dried cocoons

Place dried cocoons in breathable cloth bags or bamboo baskets. Storage conditions require dry conditions (relative humidity below 65%), ventilation, and protection from light. Pest prevention: a small amount of camphor can be placed nearby (but not in direct contact with the cocoons). Well-stored dried cocoons can be kept for 6-12 months.

Materials for this step:

Breathable Cloth BagBreathable Cloth Bag5 pieces
Camphor BallsCamphor Balls10 pieces
15

Store cocoons for breeding separately

Select the finest cocoons as breeding cocoons — allowing pupae to complete normal eclosion into moths for mating and egg-laying. Breeding cocoon selection standards: most regular cocoon shape, thickest cocoon layer, no defects of any kind. Breeding cocoons are not killed; they are stored separately in a well-ventilated environment with suitable temperature (25°C) awaiting eclosion.

16

Clean the silkworm equipment

After harvesting cocoons, thoroughly clean the mounting frames and rearing room. Disinfect all equipment and the rearing room floors and walls with lime water or bleach solution. Pathogens of silkworm diseases (such as white muscardine and nuclear polyhedrosis) can survive on equipment for months. Proper disinfection is key to the success of the next silkworm rearing season.

Materials for this step:

Lime Water or Bleach SolutionLime Water or Bleach Solution5 liters

Tools needed:

Scrub BrushScrub Brush

Materials

4

Tools Required

9

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