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Tuscan Clay Harvesting — From Earth to Ceramic Body
English
CapoNeFerro

Created by

CapoNeFerro

22. April 2026IT
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Tuscan Clay Harvesting — From Earth to Ceramic Body

Complete guide to harvesting and preparing Tuscan red clay — the same clay used by the Etruscans and Romans for terracotta, amphorae, and bricks. Learn to identify clay deposits along rivers and hills of Tuscany, field-test plasticity, dig, age, and work the raw clay into a body ready for shaping.
Beginner
3-4 hours

Instructions

1

Understand what Tuscan clay is

Clay is a hydrated aluminum silicate formed by the decomposition of feldspars through weathering over millions of years. In Tuscany, the clay is particularly rich in iron oxides (Fe2O3), which give it the characteristic red-orange color after firing. Clay particles have a diameter of less than 0.002 mm. Tuscan clay has been used since the Etruscan period (8th-1st century BCE) for producing bucchero pottery, roof tiles, and bricks.

2

Identify clay deposits

The best deposits are found along riverbanks (Arno, Elsa, Era), at the foot of hills, in road cuts, and in eroded areas. Clay appears as a compact, smooth layer of uniform color (red, ochre, gray) beneath the humus layer. Look for areas where rain has exposed shiny, slippery soil layers that do not drain water quickly.

Tools needed:

Topographic MapTopographic Map
3

Check collection permits

In Italy, the subsoil belongs to the state according to the Civil Code (art. 840). For small quantities for personal and artisanal use, collection from public land is generally tolerated. For larger quantities or from private land, always ask the owner for permission. Avoid protected areas, nature parks, and archaeological sites.

4

Perform the ball test

Take a handful of soil, moisten it slightly and try to form a ball the size of an orange. If the ball maintains its shape without crumbling and the surface can be smoothed with your thumb, you have found clay with good plasticity. If it crumbles, the material contains too much sand.

5

Perform the cylinder test

Roll the moist clay into a cylinder 1 cm in diameter and 15 cm in length. Lift it by one end: if it holds at least 5 cm without breaking, the plasticity is sufficient for ceramics. Bend the cylinder into an arc: if it does not crack at the curve, the clay is of good quality. These tests are called simplified Atterberg tests.

6

Dig out the clay

With a spade, remove the first 15-20 cm of organic soil. Clean clay is found below. Dig out blocks of clay and place them in buckets. Collect at least 15-20 kg of raw material, as processing involves a 20-30% loss in impurities. Do not mix layers of different colors: different clays have different compositions.

Materials for this step:

Raw Clay from DepositRaw Clay from Deposit20 kilogram

Tools needed:

Digging Spade (Vanga)Digging Spade (Vanga)
20-Liter Bucket20-Liter Bucket
Work GlovesWork Gloves
7

Dry the blocks in the sun

Spread the clay blocks on a cloth outdoors for 2-3 days until they are completely dry. Dry clay breaks easily into smaller fragments. Break the blocks into walnut-sized pieces using a wooden hammer. The smaller the fragments, the more quickly they will dissolve in water in the next phase.

Tools needed:

TarpTarp
Wooden MalletWooden Mallet
8

Prepare the slip

Place the dry fragments in a large bucket and cover them with water in a ratio of 1 part dry clay to 2 parts water. Let soak for 24-48 hours. The clay slowly dissolves, forming a liquid suspension called slip (barbottina). Stir vigorously with a stick. Any remaining lumps will break up by hand.

Materials for this step:

Clean WaterClean Water40 liters

Tools needed:

Large Mixing Bucket (50L)Large Mixing Bucket (50L)
Wooden Mixing StickWooden Mixing Stick
9

Sieving the slip

Filter the liquid slip through a 60 mesh sieve (0.25 mm opening) to remove stones, roots, coarse sand and organic debris. The fine clay passes through with the water. The material retained in the sieve is discarded. For a more refined result, pass a second time with 80 mesh (0.18 mm opening).

Tools needed:

Fine Mesh Sieve (60-80 mesh)Fine Mesh Sieve (60-80 mesh)
Collection BucketCollection Bucket
10

Decant the clay

Let the sieved slip rest for 24 hours. The clay settles to the bottom by gravity, while clear water remains on the surface. Siphon or tilt the bucket to remove the clear water without disturbing the sediment. Repeat the process until the surface water is relatively clear. This process is called levigation.

Tools needed:

Siphon TubeSiphon Tube
11

Dry the mass to working consistency

Pour the clay sediment onto a plaster slab or an absorbent cotton cloth. The plaster absorbs excess water rapidly due to its porosity. If you do not have plaster, spread on a cotton cloth in the sun. Turn the mass every few hours. The clay is ready when it has the consistency of modeling clay and does not stick to your fingers.

Tools needed:

Plaster BatPlaster Bat
12

Knead the clay (wedging)

Knead the clay as you would bread: press with the heel of your palms, fold it over itself, and rotate a quarter turn. Repeat for 5-10 minutes. This operation, called rams-head wedging, removes trapped air bubbles (which would cause explosions during firing) and evens out the moisture. Properly prepared clay has a smooth, uniform surface.

Tools needed:

Wedging TableWedging Table
13

Test the final plasticity

Repeat the cylinder test: a roll of 1 cm diameter should hold at least 8 cm without breaking. Bend the cylinder into a U-shape: if it does not crack, the plasticity is excellent. If it cracks, the clay needs a longer aging period or the addition of a small amount of ball clay (2-5%) to improve plasticity.
14

Package and store

Form the prepared clay into blocks of 2-3 kg. Wrap each block tightly in plastic wrap, removing all air. Store in a cool, shaded place. Well-wrapped clay maintains its moisture for months. An aging period of 2-4 weeks further improves plasticity due to bacterial decomposition of residual organic particles.

Materials for this step:

Plastic WrapPlastic Wrap1 roll
15

Document the collection source

Note the exact collection location, the color of the raw clay, the results of field tests, and the date. Clays from different locations have different compositions that affect the color after firing (from brick red to pink), the maturing temperature (900-1100 degrees C for Tuscan terracottas), and plasticity. A good deposit can provide material for years.

Tools needed:

Field NotebookField Notebook

Materials

3

Tools Required

14

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