Dyeing with Annatto — Orange-Red of Indigenous Peoples

Choose dry annatto seeds (Bixa orellana) with intact orange-red aril. Use approximately 50-100% of the fiber weight (for example, 100g of seeds for 100g of fiber).

Wash the fiber or fabric in hot water with neutral soap to remove oils, waxes and gum. Rinse well until the water runs clean.

Dissolve alum (aluminum and potassium sulfate) in hot water, using 12-15% of the fiber weight. For 100g of fiber, use 12-15g of alum in 4 liters of water.

Immerse the wet fiber in the alum bath. Heat slowly until low boil (80-90°C) and maintain for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Do not wring — simply stir gently.

Turn off the heat and let the fiber cool inside the mordant bath. Ideally, soak overnight for better fixation.

In a separate pot (stainless steel or enameled — NUNCA aluminum or iron), place the annatto seeds in 4-5 liters of water.

Heat the seeds over medium-low heat, maintaining a gentle boil for 1 hour. The water will become intensely orange-red as the bixin dissolves.

Strain the liquid through a fine cloth or sieve, removing all seeds. The dye bath should be clear and intensely colored.

Remove the fiber from the alum bath. Squeeze out excess gently, but DO NOT rinse — the mordant must remain on the fiber.

Place the mordanted fiber (still damp) in the strained annatto bath. Make sure the fiber is completely submerged.

Heat the annatto bath with the fiber to 70-80°C (DO NOT boil). Maintain this temperature for 1 hour, stirring regularly to ensure even color.

Turn off the heat and let the fiber cool inside the annatto bath overnight. The longer the soak, the more intense the color.

Remove the fiber from the bath and rinse gently in cold water until the water runs relatively clean. Dry in the shade — NUNCA in direct sun, as annatto has low light fastness.

The result should be a vibrant orange to orange-red, depending on the seed concentration and soak time. Note: annatto has limited light fastness — ideal for pieces stored when not in use.