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Bobbinet Lace Machine
George P. Lewis (Wikimedia Commons) · Public domain
Tex

Autor

Tex

20. sierpień 2026FO
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Bobbinet Lace Machine

A machine that made lace net by twisting rather than weaving, and destroyed a luxury in the process. Hand-made pillow lace begins with a ground — a regular hexagonal net — on which the pattern is worked, and making that ground by hand took the largest share of the labour. John Heathcoat spent years working out how the threads actually cross in it and patented a machine in 1808 that reproduced the hexagonal twist-net exactly. Warp threads run down the machine; thin brass bobbins, each carrying a thread and flattened enough to pass between the warps, traverse sideways and twist around them. The net that had cost weeks came off a machine by the yard. Heathcoat's Loughborough factory was destroyed by Luddites in 1816; he rebuilt in Devon and the price of lace fell for the rest of the century.
Zaawansowany
1 hour

Instrukcje

1

Look at the ground you are copying

Examine real net closely before trying to reproduce it.

  1. Take a piece of net or tulle and look at it under magnification.
  2. Find a single hexagonal hole and trace its sides.
  3. Note that the threads are twisted around one another, not interlaced over and under.
That is the distinction the whole machine turns on. Weaving passes threads over and under; this twists them. A twisted junction cannot slip, which is why net holds its shape without any selvedge holding it together.

Materiały do tego kroku:

Convex LensConvex Lens1 sztuka
2

Set up the warp

Vertical threads under even tension, evenly spaced.

  1. Stretch parallel threads on a frame, a few millimetres apart.
  2. Tension them equally — uneven tension gives uneven holes.
  3. Fix a comb or reed at top and bottom to hold the spacing.
Everything the bobbins do is measured against this spacing. Warp threads that wander produce net with holes of different sizes, which is exactly the fault that distinguishes an early machine net from a good one.

Materiały do tego kroku:

Waxed Linen ThreadWaxed Linen Thread1 szpulka
3

Make flat bobbins

The bobbin has to carry a useful length of thread and still slip between two warp threads.

  1. Cut thin discs from sheet brass or stiff card.
  2. Wind thread around the rim so the disc stays flat.
  3. Check it passes freely through your warp spacing.
This was Heathcoat's practical breakthrough. A round bobbin cannot pass between closely spaced warps; a flattened disc can, and it can carry enough thread to be worth the trouble. The machine is often called the bobbinet for exactly this part.

Materiały do tego kroku:

Copper SheetCopper Sheet1 arkusz
4

Traverse and twist by hand

Work one course slowly to see the mesh appear.

  1. Pass a bobbin between two warp threads, around one, and back.
  2. Move it one warp position sideways and repeat.
  3. Alternate the direction of the sideways shift on each course.
The alternating shift is what turns a row of simple twists into a hexagon. Shift the same way every course and you get straight twisted cords with no net at all — the mesh is made by the zig-zag of the traverse, not by the twist alone.
5

History and context

John Heathcoat (1783-1861) was a Leicestershire framesmith who reportedly took apart the problem by pinning out a piece of pillow lace and following every thread. His bobbinet patent dates from 1808, and it is often described as one of the most valuable British textile patents of the century.

The 1816 attack. Luddites broke into his Loughborough mill and destroyed the frames. Heathcoat was awarded compensation on condition he rebuilt in Loughborough; he refused, and moved the business to Tiverton in Devon — taking the work away from the district that had attacked it. The Tiverton factory operated for well over a century.

What it did to lace. Machine net supplied the ground, and hand workers could then embroider or apply patterns onto it — so hand lace did not vanish, it moved up the value chain onto machine-made ground. Prices fell far enough that lace stopped being a marker of rank and became ordinary trimming. Nottingham became the world centre of machine lace.

Why this is the hardest machine in this batch. The bobbins must pass through a moving warp, be caught on the far side, carried sideways and returned, all without snagging thread. Heathcoat's machine had rows of bobbin carriages driven by cams and it was, by the standards of 1808, an extraordinarily complicated piece of engineering. A bench model shows the thread path honestly; it does not begin to show the mechanism that automates it.

Materiały

3

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