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Bone-Dry Clay Vessels: Formed, Dried Slowly, Ready to Fire
Mary

Created by

Mary

14. October 2026FI
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Bone-Dry Clay Vessels: Formed, Dried Slowly, Ready to Fire

A pot must be bone dry before it is fired: dried until it is porous, no longer plastic and very fragile. On the way it passes leather-hard, when shrinking stops. Dry it slowly and evenly so it does not crack, and finish the last water off gently in the kiln. The picture: a large unfired pot, bound round with fibre while it dries, at Nwenyein, Myanmar.
Beginner
One to two weeks

Instructions

1

Form the vessels

Build the pots as in the coil pot blueprint, up to the end of shaping; do not fire them.
2

Dry slowly under cover

Stand the pots on a cloth-covered board out of sun and draught, loosely covered, so rims and bases dry at the same pace.

Tools needed:

Damp Cloth CoverDamp Cloth Cover
Plastic SheetPlastic Sheet
Canvas Work Surface for PotteryCanvas Work Surface for Pottery
3

Leather-hard

When the clay is firm enough to handle and has stopped shrinking, it is leather-hard: trim and burnish now, and join handles with slip.

Materials for this step:

Pottery Slip (Liquid Clay)Pottery Slip (Liquid Clay)50 ml

Tools needed:

Clay Tool SetClay Tool Set
4

Uncover and dry to bone-dry

Uncover the pots and let them dry in a warm room until they turn pale and light. A pot that still feels cool against the cheek is still damp (our test). Handle bone-dry pots gently: they break easily.

Tools needed:

Balance ScaleBalance Scale
5

Is it dry yet?

Loading Jupyter Notebook...
6

Limits

Leather-hard and bone-dry are as the Wikipedia ceramics glossary defines them; the cover, the cheek test and the weighing are ours. Kilns finish the last water with a slow, low first stage (candling).

Materials

1

Tools Required

5

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