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Bone-Dry Clay Vessels: Formed, Dried Slowly, Ready to Fire
A pot must be bone dry before it is fired: dried until it is porous, no longer plastic and very fragile. On the way it passes leather-hard, when shrinking stops. Dry it slowly and evenly so it does not crack, and finish the last water off gently in the kiln.
The picture: a large unfired pot, bound round with fibre while it dries, at Nwenyein, Myanmar.
Beginner
One to two weeks
Instructions
1
1
Form the vessels
Form the vessels
Build the pots as in the coil pot blueprint, up to the end of shaping; do not fire them.
2
2
Dry slowly under cover
Dry slowly under cover
Stand the pots on a cloth-covered board out of sun and draught, loosely covered, so rims and bases dry at the same pace.
Tools needed:
Damp Cloth Cover
Plastic Sheet
Canvas Work Surface for Pottery3
3
Leather-hard
Leather-hard
When the clay is firm enough to handle and has stopped shrinking, it is leather-hard: trim and burnish now, and join handles with slip.
Materials for this step:
Pottery Slip (Liquid Clay)50 mlTools needed:
Clay Tool Set4
4
Uncover and dry to bone-dry
Uncover and dry to bone-dry
Uncover the pots and let them dry in a warm room until they turn pale and light. A pot that still feels cool against the cheek is still damp (our test). Handle bone-dry pots gently: they break easily.
Tools needed:
Balance Scale5
5
Is it dry yet?
Is it dry yet?
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6
6
Limits
Limits
Leather-hard and bone-dry are as the Wikipedia ceramics glossary defines them; the cover, the cheek test and the weighing are ours. Kilns finish the last water with a slow, low first stage (candling).
Materials
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Tools Required
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