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How to build a Forge Trip Hammer
Admiral OOM

Created by

Admiral OOM

16. July 2026NO
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How to build a Forge Trip Hammer

A trip hammer (helve or tilt hammer) is a water-powered forging hammer used by blacksmiths to pound metal far faster than a hand hammer — a technology in use for over 2,000 years and the backbone of the medieval hammer mill. Flowing water turns a wheel; the wheel's axle carries protruding cams that repeatedly catch the tail of a heavy pivoted beam (the helve), lifting the iron hammer head and then releasing it to fall under gravity onto the anvil below.

This blueprint documents the mechanism and assembly sequence of the classic water-powered forge trip hammer. It converts the steady rotation of a water wheel into the vertical, repetitive striking force needed to consolidate a bloom and shape wrought iron and steel. Many historical forges paired it with a trompe — a falling-water air compressor that blasts the forge with no mechanical bellows. Source: Wikipedia — Trip hammer; mechanism diagram after Fig. 4 (forge trip hammer).

Advanced
Several days (workshop build)

Instructions

1

Divert flowing water to the wheel

Cut a channel (a leat or sluice) that diverts part of a stream or river to the site and delivers a steady flow to where the wheel will sit. A gate at the head of the channel lets you start, stop and throttle the flow. The whole machine runs on this moving water — gravity and flow are the only power source.

Materials for this step:

Water Channel SluiceWater Channel Sluice1 piece

Tools needed:

Digging SpadeDigging Spade
2

Build the water wheel on an iron axle

Build a water wheel and mount it on a strong iron axle turning in fixed bearings. Position it so the diverted water strikes the wheel — over the top (overshot) or against the lower blades (undershot). The pushing water gives constant rotational torque at the axle.

Materials for this step:

Water WheelWater Wheel1 piece
Iron AxleIron Axle1 piece

Tools needed:

Woodworking SawWoodworking Saw
3

Fit the camshaft

Couple a heavy timber or iron camshaft to the water wheel's axle so it turns with the wheel. This rotating shaft is what will drive the hammer.

Materials for this step:

Timber CamshaftTimber Camshaft1 piece

Tools needed:

AdzeAdze
4

Space iron cams around the camshaft

Fit protruding curved iron cams (lugs) around the camshaft. Each cam is the finger that will catch and lift the hammer beam once per pass. More cams around the shaft means more blows per rotation.

Materials for this step:

Iron CamIron Cam1 set

Tools needed:

Blacksmith ForgeBlacksmith Forge
5

Make the helve (hammer beam) and pivot

Shape a heavy timber beam — the helve — and mount it on a fixed pivot (fulcrum) so it rocks like a see-saw: the tail on the camshaft side, the head on the anvil side.

Materials for this step:

Helve BeamHelve Beam1 piece
Timber FrameTimber Frame1 piece

Tools needed:

Woodworking SawWoodworking Saw
6

Forge and fit the iron hammer head

Forge a heavy iron hammer head and fix it to the working end of the helve. This is the mass that does the pounding; its weight, dropping from height, delivers the blow.

Materials for this step:

Iron Hammer HeadIron Hammer Head1 piece

Tools needed:

Blacksmith ForgeBlacksmith Forge
Blacksmith HammerBlacksmith Hammer
7

Set the anvil under the head

Bed a heavy iron anvil into a solid base directly beneath the hammer head, aligned so the head lands square on the anvil face. The workpiece sits here to be struck.

Materials for this step:

Iron AnvilIron Anvil1 piece

Tools needed:

Digging SpadeDigging Spade
8

Align the cams to the helve tail

Position the helve so its tail sits in the path of the cams. As the camshaft rotates, each cam must catch the underside of the tail, lift it, then release it cleanly as the cam rotates past.

Tools needed:

AdzeAdze
9

Run it: lift and drop

Open the sluice. The wheel turns, the camshaft turns, and each cam lifts the helve tail — raising the head. The instant the cam passes, the tail drops and the head falls under gravity onto the anvil. One cam pass = one blow. This is the whole cycle, repeating as long as the water flows.

10

Regulate the blow with the sluice gate

Control the hammer with the gate at the head of the channel: more water means a faster wheel and faster, harder blows; less water slows or stops it. The gate is the throttle.

Materials for this step:

Water Channel SluiceWater Channel Sluice1 piece
11

Optional — add a trompe for the forge blast

Many historical forges added a trompe: water falling down a pipe draws air in with it, compresses it in a chamber below, and pipes that steady blast to the forge fire — no bellows, no fan. It powers the forge from the same falling water that drives the hammer.

Materials for this step:

Wooden Trompe PipeWooden Trompe Pipe1 piece
12

Forge under the hammer

Heat the workpiece in the forge — for consolidating a spongy iron bloom, or drawing out a bar. Hold it on the anvil under the falling head and let the hammer do the work: consolidating the bloom, drawing, and shaping far faster than a hand hammer ever could.

Materials for this step:

Iron BloomIron Bloom1 piece

Tools needed:

Blacksmith TongsBlacksmith Tongs
13

How it works, and why it mattered

The core idea: a trip hammer converts the rotational energy of a water wheel into a vertical, repeating blow. The cam is a lifter, not a driver — it only raises the head; gravity delivers the force. Blows-per-minute is set by the number of cams times the wheel speed; blow force is set by the head's mass and how high it is lifted.

Why it mattered: before steam, this is how the world's wrought iron and steel was shaped where water was available — over 2,000 years of blooms consolidated and bars drawn under water power. The same principle scaled up into the steam hammer of the 1840s and the industrial revolution that followed. A handful of water-powered forge hammers are still worked by hand today.

Materials

11

Tools Required

6

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