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Leather Gloves: Cut, Pressed and Sewn
A leather glove is several pieces: the main piece forming palm, back and the faces of the fingers, a separate thumb, and narrow side pieces between the fingers called fourchettes, sometimes with small gussets between them. The cutter first pulls and stretches each skin to find its spread, then marks it with card patterns and cuts oblong pieces, called tranks, sized for each glove. A cutting die, a knife shaped like a double hand, stamps the glove's outline out of each trank in a press, and the odd parts come from the offcuts. Machine sewing then sets in the thumb, fourchettes and gussets and closes the glove. Cowhide is used for the cheaper, sturdier gloves.
Intermediate
Factory process
Instructions
1
1
Stretch the skin
Stretch the skin
Pull and stretch the skin lengthways and sideways to find its spread.
Materials for this step:
Leather1 piece2
2
Cut the tranks
Cut the tranks
Using card patterns in the glove's double outline, mark and cut oblong tranks of the right size; keep the offcuts for thumbs, fourchettes and gussets.
Materials for this step:
Card Stock1 pieceTools needed:
Leather Shears3
3
Press-cut
Press-cut
Lay each trank on the cutting die in the press and stamp out the glove shape; stamp the small parts from the offcuts.
Tools needed:
Glove Cutting Die
Leather Cutting Press4
4
Inspect
Inspect
Check every cut part before it goes to the sewers.
5
5
Sew
Sew
Sew in the thumb, fourchettes and gussets, then close the glove.
Materials for this step:
Thread1 pieceTools needed:
Sewing MachineTools Required
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