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Reading a Failed Print: The Fault Names Itself If You Look
A failed print is evidence. Where it went wrong, what the surface looks like, and at which layer it stopped all point at a cause — and there are only about a dozen causes.
The useful discipline is to look BEFORE changing anything. A print that failed halfway up failed for a different reason than one that never stuck, and a print with holes in the top surface has a different problem again from one that is stringy all over.
Then change ONE setting and print again. Changing four settings because a forum post listed four possibilities means that when it works you have learned nothing, and the next failure starts from zero.
Intermediate
3 hours
Instructions
1
1
Failures at the plate
Failures at the plate
NOTHING STUCK: nozzle too high, plate dirty, or plate cold. Check the first-layer rung's three tests in that order.
CORNERS LIFTED, rest fine: warping. Material, enclosure, draughts and corner radius — the warping rung.
PART CAME OFF PARTWAY UP: adhesion was marginal from the start and the growing part's shrinkage finally won. That is a warping failure presenting late, not an adhesion failure, and more glue will not fix it.
Materials for this step:
3D Printing Filament (PLA)1 pieceTools needed:
FDM 3D Printer
3D Print Removal Spatula Set
Magnifying Loupe2
2
Failures in the plastic
Failures in the plastic
STRINGS between parts: the nozzle is oozing while travelling. Too hot, or too little retraction, or wet filament — and wet filament is the one people check last and should check first if the filament has been open a while.
GAPS BETWEEN LINES and a weak, translucent part: under-extrusion. A partial blockage, a worn or slipping extruder gear, or the flow rate set too low.
BLOBS AND RIDGES, dimensions too large: over-extrusion. Flow too high, or the filament diameter in the slicer not matching what is actually loaded — a 1.75 mm setting on 1.70 mm filament is a few percent of error that shows on every wall.
Materials for this step:
3D Printing Filament (PLA)1 pieceTools needed:
Magnifying Loupe
Digital Caliper 6-Inch
Filament Dryer
3D Printer Nozzle Set3
3
Failures in the geometry
Failures in the geometry
SAGGING UNDERSIDES: an overhang past what the machine can do. The overhang rung's table says whether it was ever going to work at that layer height.
A LAYER SHIFT — everything above a certain height offset sideways — is mechanical, not a slicing problem. The nozzle hit something, a belt slipped, or a motor lost steps because it was moving too fast.
SPLITTING ALONG A LAYER after the print is finished: layer adhesion. Print hotter, slow down, reduce the fan, or re-orient — and if the part is loaded across its layers, re-orienting is the answer the other three are compensating for.
Materials for this step:
3D Printing Filament (PLA)1 piece
ABS Filament1 pieceTools needed:
Magnifying Loupe
FDM 3D Printer
3D Printer Tool Kit4
4
Keep the failures, and keep a log
Keep the failures, and keep a log
Photograph the failure before throwing it away, and write down what the settings were. A drawer of labelled failures is a diagnostic reference that gets better every time something goes wrong.
Log every print that mattered: filament, temperature, speed, layer height, what came out. Filament varies between spools of the same brand, and a note saying "this spool needs 5 degrees hotter" saves the next three prints.
That is the notebook rung again, and it is the habit that separates a printer that works reliably from one that is a lottery. The settings that work for your machine are discoverable, and they are only discoverable by writing them down.
Tools needed:
Desktop Computer
Digital Caliper 6-InchMaterials
2- 3 piecesPlaceholder
- 1 piecePlaceholder
Tools Required
8- Placeholder
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- Filament Dryer10% commissionPlaceholder
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- 3D Printer Tool Kit10% commissionPlaceholder
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