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Reading a Failed Print: The Fault Names Itself If You Look
3DBonanza

Created by

3DBonanza

24. September 2026US
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Reading a Failed Print: The Fault Names Itself If You Look

A failed print is evidence. Where it went wrong, what the surface looks like, and at which layer it stopped all point at a cause — and there are only about a dozen causes. The useful discipline is to look BEFORE changing anything. A print that failed halfway up failed for a different reason than one that never stuck, and a print with holes in the top surface has a different problem again from one that is stringy all over. Then change ONE setting and print again. Changing four settings because a forum post listed four possibilities means that when it works you have learned nothing, and the next failure starts from zero.
Intermediate
3 hours

Instructions

1

Failures at the plate

NOTHING STUCK: nozzle too high, plate dirty, or plate cold. Check the first-layer rung's three tests in that order. CORNERS LIFTED, rest fine: warping. Material, enclosure, draughts and corner radius — the warping rung. PART CAME OFF PARTWAY UP: adhesion was marginal from the start and the growing part's shrinkage finally won. That is a warping failure presenting late, not an adhesion failure, and more glue will not fix it.

Materials for this step:

3D Printing Filament (PLA)3D Printing Filament (PLA)1 piece

Tools needed:

FDM 3D PrinterFDM 3D Printer
3D Print Removal Spatula Set3D Print Removal Spatula Set
Magnifying LoupeMagnifying Loupe
2

Failures in the plastic

STRINGS between parts: the nozzle is oozing while travelling. Too hot, or too little retraction, or wet filament — and wet filament is the one people check last and should check first if the filament has been open a while. GAPS BETWEEN LINES and a weak, translucent part: under-extrusion. A partial blockage, a worn or slipping extruder gear, or the flow rate set too low. BLOBS AND RIDGES, dimensions too large: over-extrusion. Flow too high, or the filament diameter in the slicer not matching what is actually loaded — a 1.75 mm setting on 1.70 mm filament is a few percent of error that shows on every wall.

Materials for this step:

3D Printing Filament (PLA)3D Printing Filament (PLA)1 piece

Tools needed:

Magnifying LoupeMagnifying Loupe
Digital Caliper 6-InchDigital Caliper 6-Inch
Filament DryerFilament Dryer
3D Printer Nozzle Set3D Printer Nozzle Set
3

Failures in the geometry

SAGGING UNDERSIDES: an overhang past what the machine can do. The overhang rung's table says whether it was ever going to work at that layer height. A LAYER SHIFT — everything above a certain height offset sideways — is mechanical, not a slicing problem. The nozzle hit something, a belt slipped, or a motor lost steps because it was moving too fast. SPLITTING ALONG A LAYER after the print is finished: layer adhesion. Print hotter, slow down, reduce the fan, or re-orient — and if the part is loaded across its layers, re-orienting is the answer the other three are compensating for.

Materials for this step:

3D Printing Filament (PLA)3D Printing Filament (PLA)1 piece
ABS FilamentABS Filament1 piece

Tools needed:

Magnifying LoupeMagnifying Loupe
FDM 3D PrinterFDM 3D Printer
3D Printer Tool Kit3D Printer Tool Kit
4

Keep the failures, and keep a log

Photograph the failure before throwing it away, and write down what the settings were. A drawer of labelled failures is a diagnostic reference that gets better every time something goes wrong. Log every print that mattered: filament, temperature, speed, layer height, what came out. Filament varies between spools of the same brand, and a note saying "this spool needs 5 degrees hotter" saves the next three prints. That is the notebook rung again, and it is the habit that separates a printer that works reliably from one that is a lottery. The settings that work for your machine are discoverable, and they are only discoverable by writing them down.

Tools needed:

Desktop ComputerDesktop Computer
Digital Caliper 6-InchDigital Caliper 6-Inch

Materials

2

Tools Required

8

CC0 Public Domain

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