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The Latch-Hook Chain Stitcher: A Hook Needle From Below, Its Latch Closed by the Cloth
Emma

Created by

Emma

30. September 2026SE
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The Latch-Hook Chain Stitcher: A Hook Needle From Below, Its Latch Closed by the Cloth

A hook needle rising through the cloth from below catches the thread above and draws it down as a loop; but going up, the open hook catches in the cloth, and coming down it may drop the loop. Daniel Weaver of Guilderland, New York, received US 80,789, dated 4 August 1868, for a machine in which "the hook-needle is provided with a latch, which recedes as the needle rises, so that the hook will catch the thread presented to it and, forming a loop, carry it down through the material, the loop of the thread being retained in the hook by a latch, which also prevents the hook in its descent from catching in the material." A tappet-arm opens the latch to cast off the loop, a spring closes it, and a fork rising through slots in the cloth-plate feeds the work with the needle. This rung works out how the bracket's place sets the stitch, then builds a hand-cranked demonstrator from a latch-hook needle on a rocking bar under a cloth-plate, and sews a chain stitch from below.
Advanced
About 2 days

Instructions

1

Feed from the bracket

Loading Jupyter Notebook...
2

A hook-needle machine before it

The embedded blueprint works on a machine whose hook needle rises through the work. Weaver adds a latch that shuts the hook so it neither catches the cloth nor drops the loop.
3

Read US 80,789

"The needle n is provided with a latch or slide, e, which is embedded in a groove in the needle-bar and subjected to the action of a spring, f, which has a tendency to keep the point of the latch in contact with the barb of the hook, so that said hook is closed." "By these means a chain-stitch is formed and a sewing mechanism is obtained which is very simple in its construction and sure in its operation. The feed of the material to be sewed is effected by the needle itself and the fork, said needle and fork being so arranged that they receive a compound motion—viz., a reciprocating and an oscillating motion"
4

Build the demonstrator and sew from below

**Frame and plate.** Make a hardwood table with a thin plywood cloth-plate on top, slotted for the needle, and fix a sprung wooden foot above it that presses the cloth down. **Needle bar.** Under the plate, pivot a hardwood needle-bar in a bracket, its lower end on a wrist-pin on a hand-turned disc. Fix a crochet hook in its upper end as the hook needle, pointing up through the slot. **Latch.** Glue a thin strip of spring steel along the hook's shank as the latch, bent so its tip rests on the hook's barb and closes it; fix a small stop under the plate that the latch meets as the hook comes down, opening it to cast off. **Test.** Lay cloth under the foot, lead a thread over it from a spool, and turn the disc slowly. Watch the hook catch the thread above, draw a loop down, and draw the next loop through it. Move the bracket's pivot and see the stitch length change.

Materials for this step:

Hardwood BoardHardwood Board2 pieces
Plywood SheetPlywood Sheet1 piece
Hardwood BlockHardwood Block1 piece
Wood ScrewsWood Screws12 pieces
Spring Steel StripSpring Steel Strip0.1 meter
Compression Spring AssortmentCompression Spring Assortment1 piece
Two-Part EpoxyTwo-Part Epoxy1 piece
Cotton ThreadCotton Thread1 piece
Cotton Fabric (Lightweight)Cotton Fabric (Lightweight)1 piece

Tools needed:

Hand SawHand Saw
Chisel Set - WoodChisel Set - Wood
Cordless DrillCordless Drill
Drill Bit SetDrill Bit Set
Crochet Hook SetCrochet Hook Set
Round-nose PliersRound-nose Pliers
Screwdriver SetScrewdriver Set
ClampsClamps
Digital Caliper 6-InchDigital Caliper 6-Inch
5

A hook that snags, drops loops or skips

Latch-hook chain stitcher troubleshooting.

Flow

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6

History and honest limits

**Daniel Weaver** of Guilderland, Albany County, New York, received US 80,789, dated 4 August 1868. His needle-bar G was driven by the wrist-pin a on the disc F of the driving shaft E, its bracket I pivoted on a slide u adjusted by the lever K; the tappet-arm g opened the latch, and the stop h held it open as the needle rose; the fork k on a rod l with the spring q fed the material; the foot C was fixed and the cloth-plate H sprung up against it. His claims cover the spring and tappet-arm with the latch and hook-needle, the stop, the fork's spring and bracket, and the slide and hinged bracket with the lever. **Honest limits.** A crochet hook with a strip latch on a hand-turned wooden linkage stands in for his machine, and the fork feed is left out. The notebook's stitch length is a small-angle approximation; its values are examples. Your chain stitch is the result.

Materials

9

Tools Required

9

CC0 Public Domain

This blueprint is released under CC0. You are free to copy, modify, distribute, and use this work for any purpose, without asking permission.

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