
Tentering Cloth on a Frame — Stretching Fulled Wool to Set Width and Grain
Tentering is the critical finishing step between fulling and napping that transforms shapeless, shrunken fulled wool into cloth of uniform width and straight grain. The wet fulled fabric is hooked onto rows of L-shaped iron hooks — tenterhooks — driven into the rails of a large outdoor wooden frame, then stretched to its proper dimensions and left to dry in the open air. Without tentering, fulled cloth dries unevenly, shrinks to unpredictable widths, and develops a skewed grain that makes cutting and tailoring impossible. The process was so central to the medieval wool trade that every cloth town maintained communal tentergrounds, and the phrase "on tenterhooks" — meaning in a state of anxious suspense — entered the English language from this very practice. This blueprint covers the complete tentering process using a traditional two-rail tenter frame.
Instruções
Inspect the fulled cloth
Inspect the fulled cloth
Materiais para este passo:
Fulled Wool Cloth1 peçaRinse the cloth clean
Rinse the cloth clean
Materiais para este passo:
Clean Water20 litrosFerramentas necessárias:
Washing BasinMeasure the target width
Measure the target width
Ferramentas necessárias:
Measuring Tape 3mPosition the tenter frame
Position the tenter frame
Ferramentas necessárias:
Tenter FrameCheck the tenterhooks
Check the tenterhooks
Ferramentas necessárias:
TenterhooksHook the upper selvedge
Hook the upper selvedge
Stretch and hook the lower selvedge
Stretch and hook the lower selvedge
Even the tension across the cloth
Even the tension across the cloth
Smooth the surface by hand
Smooth the surface by hand
Stretch the length if needed
Stretch the length if needed
Leave to dry in the air
Leave to dry in the air
Check tension during drying
Check tension during drying
Test for dryness
Test for dryness
Unhook the lower rail
Unhook the lower rail
Unhook the upper rail
Unhook the upper rail
Measure the finished width
Measure the finished width
Ferramentas necessárias:
Measuring Tape 3mCheck the grain
Check the grain
Fold and store the tentered cloth
Fold and store the tentered cloth
Materiais
2- 1 peçaReferência
- 20 litrosReferência
Ferramentas necessárias
4- Referência
- Referência
- Referência
- Referência
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