Dyeing with Annatto — Orange-Red of Indigenous Peoples

Choose dry annatto seeds (Bixa orellana) with intact red-orange aril. Use approximately 50-100% of the fiber weight (for example, 100g of seeds for 100g of fiber).

Wash the fiber or fabric in hot water with neutral soap to remove oils, waxes and sizing. Rinse well until the water runs clear.

Dissolve alum (aluminum and potassium sulfate) in hot water, using 12-15% of the fiber weight. For 100g of fiber, use 12-15g of alum in 4 liters of water.

Mergulhe a fibra molhada no banho de alúmen. Aqueça lentamente até ferver baixo (80-90°C) e mantenha por 1 hora, mexendo ocasionalmente. Não torça — apenas mexa com delicadeza.

Turn off the heat and let the fiber cool in the mordant bath. Ideally, let it soak overnight for better fixation.

In a separate pan (stainless steel or enameled — NEVER aluminum or iron), place the annatto seeds in 4-5 liters of water.

Heat the seeds on medium-low heat, maintaining a gentle boil for 1 hour. The water will become intensely orange-red as the bixin dissolves.

Strain the liquid through fine cloth or a sieve, removing all seeds. The dye bath should be clear and intensely colored.

Retire a fibra do banho de alúmen. Esprema gentilmente o excesso, mas NÃO enxágue — o mordente deve permanecer na fibra.

Place the mordanted fiber (still damp) in the strained annatto bath. Make sure the fiber is completely submerged.

Heat the annatto bath with the fiber to 70-80°C (DO NOT boil). Maintain this temperature for 1 hour, stirring regularly to ensure uniform color.

Turn off the heat and let the fiber cool in the annatto bath overnight. The longer the soak, the more intense the color.

Remove the fiber from the bath and rinse gently in cold water until the water runs relatively clear. Dry in the shade — NEVER in direct sunlight, as annatto has low light fastness.

The result should be a vibrant orange to red-orange, depending on seed concentration and soaking time. Note: annatto has limited light fastness — ideal for pieces stored when not in use.