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Gear Hobbing Machine
Martin

Créé par

Martin

22. août 2026NO
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Gear Hobbing Machine

Cutting a gear on a milling machine with a form cutter means indexing, cutting one tooth space, indexing again — and the cutter is only exactly right for one tooth count, so every other gear is a compromise. Hobbing replaces the whole approach. The hob is a worm with cutting teeth, and it is rolled against the blank with both rotating in a fixed ratio, so the tooth form is GENERATED by the envelope of many successive cuts rather than copied from a shaped cutter. One hob of a given module cuts every tooth count correctly, the cutting is continuous, and each tooth is formed by the same process as its neighbours. Hermann Pfauter patented a universal hobbing machine in 1897, and hobbing is still how most gears are made.
Avancé
6 hours

Consignes

1

Understand generation before building anything

Prove to yourself that a curved tooth can be made by straight cuts.

  1. Cut a card disc as a gear blank and mark its centre.
  2. Cut a card strip with straight-sided rack teeth — this represents the hob.
  3. Roll the rack along the disc's edge without slipping, marking the rack's outline on the disc at each small step.
  4. Look at the envelope of all those straight lines.

The curve appears without anyone drawing it. The involute tooth form is the envelope of a straight-sided rack rolled against the blank, which is why a hob with straight-sided teeth can cut a correctly curved gear. This is generation rather than copying, and it is why one hob serves every tooth count of its module: the form comes from the ROLLING RELATIONSHIP, not from the cutter's shape.

Do this exercise in card before cutting metal. Most of the difficulty in understanding hobbing dissolves once the envelope appears on the disc in front of you.

Matériaux pour cette étape :

Cardstock Assorted Pack (50 Sheets)Cardstock Assorted Pack (50 Sheets)1 paquet
Graph PaperGraph Paper1 pad

Outils nécessaires :

Digital Caliper 6-InchDigital Caliper 6-Inch
Combination Square (12-inch)Combination Square (12-inch)
Coping SawCoping Saw
2

Make a single-start hob

A worm with flutes cut across it, so each thread crest becomes a row of teeth.

  1. Start from a length of M12 threaded rod — a ready-made single-start worm of known pitch.
  2. Cut three or four straight flutes along its length with a hacksaw, at 90 degrees to each other.
  3. File a relief behind each cutting edge so only the edge contacts.
  4. Mount it on an arbor in two 608 bearings.

Modern build spec (derived). A real hob is a hardened, precisely relieved and ground cutter with a defined pressure angle. Threaded rod flutted by hand will cut soft material and demonstrate the geometry exactly, at a fraction of the work. What it will not do is hold form after a few cuts.

The flutes must be straight and evenly spaced, because each becomes a cutting row. Uneven flutes mean some rows cut more than others, which shows up as a periodic error around the finished gear.

Matériaux pour cette étape :

Aluminum Round Bar (6061, 1-inch x 12-inch)Aluminum Round Bar (6061, 1-inch x 12-inch)1 pièce
Ball Bearing - Non-Flanged (8mm Bore, 22mm OD)Ball Bearing - Non-Flanged (8mm Bore, 22mm OD)2 pièces
M5 Cup Point Set ScrewM5 Cup Point Set Screw2 pièces

Outils nécessaires :

Hacksaw Frame with Blades (10-Pack)Hacksaw Frame with Blades (10-Pack)
Bench Vise (4-inch, Cast Iron)Bench Vise (4-inch, Cast Iron)
File SetFile Set
Cordless Drill/Driver (20V)Cordless Drill/Driver (20V)
Drill Bit Set (29-Piece, HSS)Drill Bit Set (29-Piece, HSS)
Digital Caliper 6-InchDigital Caliper 6-Inch
3

Gear the hob to the blank in a fixed ratio

This is the machine. Everything else is a frame to hold it.

  1. Mount the blank on a vertical spindle in 608 bearings.
  2. Connect the hob spindle to the blank spindle through a train of change gears.
  3. For a single-start hob cutting N teeth, the blank must turn once for every N turns of the hob.
  4. Fit the change gears to give that ratio and check it by counting turns by hand.
  5. Secure everything with M6 × 50 hex bolts × 4, M6 flat washers × 8 and M6 hex nuts × 4.

The ratio is the tooth count. Change the gearing to 1:37 and you cut a 37-tooth gear with the same hob; 1:38 gives 38 teeth. Nothing about the cutter changes. That is the whole economic argument for hobbing — one cutter, every tooth count, and prime numbers are no harder than round ones.

Count the turns by hand before cutting. A gearing error produces a gear with the wrong tooth count and a mangled last tooth, and it is not visible until the cut is nearly finished.

Matériaux pour cette étape :

Baltic Birch Plywood (3/4 inch, 24x30)Baltic Birch Plywood (3/4 inch, 24x30)1 feuille
Ball Bearing - Non-Flanged (8mm Bore, 22mm OD)Ball Bearing - Non-Flanged (8mm Bore, 22mm OD)2 pièces
M5 Flat WasherM5 Flat Washer8 pièces
M5 Hex NutM5 Hex Nut4 pièces
Aluminum Flat Bar (1x1/4 inch, 36-inch)Aluminum Flat Bar (1x1/4 inch, 36-inch)1 pièce

Outils nécessaires :

Cordless Drill/Driver (20V)Cordless Drill/Driver (20V)
Drill Bit Set (29-Piece, HSS)Drill Bit Set (29-Piece, HSS)
Allen/Hex Key SetAllen/Hex Key Set
Jigsaw (Variable Speed, Orbital)Jigsaw (Variable Speed, Orbital)
Combination Square (12-inch)Combination Square (12-inch)
Digital Caliper 6-InchDigital Caliper 6-Inch
4

Set the hob's lead angle and cut a gear

The hob must be tilted, or its teeth cut at an angle to the gear's axis.

  1. Measure the hob's lead angle — the helix angle of its thread.
  2. Swivel the hob head by that angle so its teeth run parallel to the gear's tooth direction.
  3. Feed the hob into the blank to full tooth depth.
  4. Feed it slowly along the blank's axis while both rotate, and let the teeth generate.
  5. Inspect the finished teeth for the characteristic faceted flanks.
Those small facets are the individual cuts whose envelope forms the curve — visible proof that the tooth was generated rather than copied. On a production machine with a finer feed they become invisible, but the geometry is identical. Forget the lead-angle tilt and the teeth come out skewed, which is exactly how you would deliberately cut a helical gear.

Matériaux pour cette étape :

Aluminum Flat Bar (1x1/4 inch, 36-inch)Aluminum Flat Bar (1x1/4 inch, 36-inch)1 pièce

Outils nécessaires :

Combination Square (12-inch)Combination Square (12-inch)
Digital Caliper 6-InchDigital Caliper 6-Inch
Allen/Hex Key SetAllen/Hex Key Set
File SetFile Set
5

Generation versus forming, and history

Hermann Pfauter patented a universal gear hobbing machine in 1897 in Chemnitz, and the firm he founded still makes hobbing machines. The same year, Edwin Fellows patented the gear shaper already in this catalogue — two different generating machines arriving simultaneously, which is a good indication that gear cutting was the bottleneck everyone was pushing at.

Generating versus forming, stated plainly. A form cutter is shaped like the space between two teeth, so it copies its own profile and is strictly correct for only one tooth count — which is why form cutters are sold in numbered sets, each covering a range approximately. A generating process rolls a simple cutter against the blank and lets the correct curve emerge from the motion. Generation gives better accuracy from simpler tooling, at the cost of a machine that must hold an exact ratio between two rotations.

What it inherited from this chain: the milling machine's rigid three-axis frame, the dividing head's principle of exact angular relation — here made continuous rather than stepped — and the change-gear train that Maudslay's screw-cutting lathe introduced for connecting rotation to rotation. Hobbing is those three ideas combined and pointed at one job.

Where each still wins: hobbing for spur, helical and worm gears in quantity; shaping for internal gears and for gears with a shoulder close by, where a hob cannot run out; form milling for one-off repairs where setting up a hobber is not worth it. Three approaches to one goal, all still in use — and the choice is about quantity and geometry, not about which is better.

Matériaux

9

Outils requis

10
Total estimé
€8.00

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