សិល្បៈ
សម្រស់ និង សុខុមាលភាព
សិប្បកម្ម
វប្បធម៌ និង ប្រវត្តិសាស្ត្រ
ការកម្សាន្ត
បរិស្ថាន
ម្ហូប និង ភេសជ្ជៈ
វិស្វកម្មបញ្ច្រាស
វិទ្យាសាស្ត្រ
កីឡា
បច្ចេកវិទ្យា
ប្រដាប់ដែលស្លៀក
Japanning
Jaggery (Wikimedia Commons) · CC BY-SA 2.0
Mary

បង្កើតដោយ

Mary

20. សីហា 2026FI
0
0
0
0
0

Japanning

A European imitation of Asian lacquer, invented because the real thing could not be had. True urushi lacquer is the sap of a tree that grows in East Asia, it cures by a slow enzymatic reaction in humid warmth, and it cannot be made from anything available in seventeenth-century Europe. What Europe could make was a hard, glossy black finish from shellac and other resins dissolved in spirit or oil, coloured with lampblack, applied in many thin coats and stoved in a warm oven between them. It is a different material by a different chemistry, and it was frankly sold as an imitation — but on metal it turned out to be excellent in its own right, and japanned tinware, trays, tea caddies and later cast-iron machine tools carried it for two centuries.
មធ្យម
2 hours

ការណែនាំ

1

Prepare the metal

The finish is only as good as its grip on the surface.

  1. Clean the metal thoroughly to remove all grease.
  2. Abrade it lightly to give a key.
  3. Wipe with spirit and let it flash off; handle by the edges from now on.
Any oil left behind causes the coating to crawl into islands as it dries. Degreasing is not preparation for the job — on metal it IS most of the job.

Materials for this step:

Steel WoolSteel Wool1 pad
2

Mix the black

Resin, solvent, pigment. Thin — much thinner than you expect.

  1. Dissolve shellac in alcohol to a light, watery consistency.
  2. Stir in a small amount of lampblack until evenly black.
  3. Strain through cloth to remove lumps.
Thin coats are the entire technique. A thick coat skins over, traps solvent underneath, and stays soft for weeks before wrinkling. Depth of colour comes from many layers, not from one heavy one.

Materials for this step:

ShellacShellac1 container
Lampblack PigmentLampblack Pigment20 ក្រ
3

Coat and stove, repeatedly

Build the film in layers, with gentle heat between each.

  1. Apply a thin, even coat.
  2. Warm the piece gently — a low oven — until the coat is hard.
  3. Cut back very lightly with fine abrasive, dust off, and repeat.
Stoving is what distinguishes japanning from ordinary varnishing. Heat drives off solvent and hardens the resin far beyond simple air-drying, which is why japanned tinware survives handling that would mark a varnished surface.

Materials for this step:

Instant-Read ThermometerInstant-Read Thermometer1 ដុំ
4

Polish, and test honestly

Finish it, then find out what it will and will not take.

  1. Polish the final coat to a gloss with a fine abrasive and oil.
  2. Test a hidden corner with water, with alcohol, and with a fingernail.
Water it shrugs off; alcohol dissolves it, because alcohol is what it was dissolved in. That is the honest limitation of a shellac-based japan and the clearest difference from true urushi, which cures irreversibly into a polymer and resists solvents entirely.

Materials for this step:

Boiled Linseed OilBoiled Linseed Oil100 មល
5

History and context

Lacquered goods reaching Europe from Japan and China in the seventeenth century were enormously fashionable and enormously expensive. European workshops set out to imitate them, and John Stalker and George Parker's Treatise of Japanning and Varnishing (1688) put the recipes in print for anyone to follow. The name simply records what was being imitated.

It is genuinely not the same material. Urushi is sap from Toxicodendron vernicifluum — a relative of poison ivy, and raw urushi causes severe dermatitis in the unaccustomed. It cures by enzyme action requiring warmth AND high humidity, which is why urushi is dried in a damp cabinet, the opposite of every other finish. The result is a polymer that resists water, alcohol and acid. Japanning is resin dissolved in solvent, hardened by heat, and it is beaten by alcohol.

Where it went industrially: Pontypool in Wales and later Bilston and Wolverhampton built substantial trades in japanned tinware — trays, caddies, boxes. In the nineteenth century black japan became the standard protective finish for cast iron: sewing machines, machine tools, bicycle frames and stove parts were all japanned, and asphalt-based black japan was cheap and tough.

What replaced it: baked enamels and then powder coating, which do the same job — a hard stoved film on metal — with better chemistry. The vocabulary lingers in gunsmithing and antique restoration, and any old machine tool with a deep glossy black finish is wearing this process.

សម្ភារៈ

5

CC0 សាធារណៈ

ប្លង់នេះត្រូវបានចេញផ្សាយក្រោម CC0។ អ្នកមានសិទ្ធិចម្លង កែប្រែ ចែកចាយ និងប្រើប្រាស់ដោយមិនចាំបាច់សុំអនុញ្ញាត។

គាំទ្រអ្នកបង្កើតដោយទិញផលិតផលតាមរយៈប្លង់របស់ពួកគេ ដែលពួកគេទទួលបាន កម្រៃជើងសារអ្នកបង្កើត កំណត់ដោយអ្នកលក់ ឬបង្កើតកំណែថ្មីនៃប្លង់នេះ ហើយបញ្ចូលជាការតភ្ជាប់ក្នុងប្លង់របស់អ្នកដើម្បីចែករំលែកចំណូល។

ការពិភាក្សា

(0)

ចូល ដើម្បីចូលរួមពិភាក្សា

កំពុងផ្ទុកមតិ...