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Craft Knife: Doniger's Hinged Handle and Reversible Blade
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26. Oṣù Kẹwà 2026NO
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Craft Knife: Doniger's Hinged Handle and Reversible Blade

A knife for model carving and fine cutting, by Sundel Doniger of New York, founder of X-Acto (US 2,463,682, filed 1945, granted 1949). The handle is two shell-like metal halves pivoted at the rear. A thin blade with a slot in its middle drops over a small 'staple' pressed out of one half; closing the other half pushes a tongue into the staple and locks the blade solid. Swing it open to change the blade or turn it end for end: the spare end rests inside the handle. The patent gives no sizes or metals. Mild steel sheet, the rivet, the spring steel blade and the sizes are ours. The picture: Figs. 1 and 2 of the patent.
Àárín
1 day

Ìlànà

1

Mark out the two handle halves

Scribe two mirror-image halves, about 130 mm long, on mild steel sheet about 0.8 mm thick (ours). Give each a flat rear ear for the pivot and a nose at the blade end.

Àwọn ohun èlò fún ìgbésẹ̀ yìí:

Ìwé Irin Pẹ́lẹ́Ìwé Irin Pẹ́lẹ́1 ẹyọ

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Abẹ́rẹ́ Ìkọ ÌlàAbẹ́rẹ́ Ìkọ Ìlà
Ìdíwọ̀nÌdíwọ̀n
2

Cut and file the halves

Cut both halves out with tin snips and file the edges smooth.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Ìlàǹkàn irinÌlàǹkàn irin
Ìfá IrinÌfá Irin
Ìdìmú TábìlìÌdìmú Tábìlì
3

Dome the grip, keep the ends flat

Hammer the middle of each half into a shallow bulge over a hollow in a hardwood block. Leave the pivot ends flat, so the pivot cannot wobble, and leave the noses flat.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Òòlù olórí bọ́ọ̀lùÒòlù olórí bọ́ọ̀lù
Ìṣù Igi LíleÌṣù Igi Líle
4

Form the blade wall and its shoulders

On the mounting half (10), the nose is a flat wall (14) in the plane where the halves meet. Turn its top and bottom edges inward into shoulders (15, 16) just as far apart as the blade is wide.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Ẹmú Ẹnu PẹrẹsẹẸmú Ẹnu Pẹrẹsẹ
Òòlù olórí bọ́ọ̀lùÒòlù olórí bọ́ọ̀lù
Ìdìmú TábìlìÌdìmú Tábìlì
5

Press out the staple

Slit the middle of the wall along two short parallel lines, lengthwise. Press the strip between the slits outward to form the staple (17).

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Àyà irin tútùÀyà irin tútù
Igi Àmì ÀárínIgi Àmì Àárín
Òòlù olórí bọ́ọ̀lùÒòlù olórí bọ́ọ̀lù
Ìdí Alágbẹ̀dẹÌdí Alágbẹ̀dẹ
6

Bend the locking channel

Bend the nose of the locking half (11) into a springy channel: a broad rear flange (19) about the size of the wall, and a front flange (20) with a tongue (21) and a cut-out (22) each side of it to clear the staple's legs.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Ìlàǹkàn irinÌlàǹkàn irin
Àkójọ Ìfá KékeréÀkójọ Ìfá Kékeré
Ẹmú Ẹnu PẹrẹsẹẸmú Ẹnu Pẹrẹsẹ
7

Drill the pivot

Clamp the halves together, punch the centre of the rear ear and drill through both.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Igi Àmì ÀárínIgi Àmì Àárín
Ìlù ọwọ́Ìlù ọwọ́
Ìdìmú TábìlìÌdìmú Tábìlì
8

Rivet the pivot

Rivet the flat ends together (Doniger used an eyelet; ours: a steel rivet). Close it firmly: the friction of the flat ends must hold the halves wherever you swing them.

Àwọn ohun èlò fún ìgbésẹ̀ yìí:

Ìṣó irinÌṣó irin1 ẹyọ

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Òòlù ìsoÒòlù ìso
Ìdí Alágbẹ̀dẹÌdí Alágbẹ̀dẹ
9

Anneal and cut the blade blank

Soften a piece of spring steel strip about 0.4 mm thick (ours), as in the connected spring-steel blueprint. Cut a blank as wide as the gap between the shoulders.

Àwọn ohun èlò fún ìgbésẹ̀ yìí:

Ọ̀pá irin orísunỌ̀pá irin orísun1 ẹyọ

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Ilé Iná Alágbẹ̀dẹIlé Iná Alágbẹ̀dẹ
Ẹmú Alágbẹ̀dẹẸmú Alágbẹ̀dẹ
Eérú Igi LíleEérú Igi Líle
Ìlàǹkàn irinÌlàǹkàn irin
Ìbọ̀wọ́ wẹ́lídìnÌbọ̀wọ́ wẹ́lídìn
10

Cut the centre slot

Cut a slot (18) in the exact middle of the blank that fits closely over the staple. Drill its ends and file out between them.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Igi Àmì ÀárínIgi Àmì Àárín
Ìlù ọwọ́Ìlù ọwọ́
Àkójọ Ìfá KékeréÀkójọ Ìfá Kékeré
Ìdìmú TábìlìÌdìmú Tábìlì
11

Shape both points

Cut each end of the blank to a slanting point, as in Fig. 1, and grind a cutting bevel at both ends.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Ìlàǹkàn irinÌlàǹkàn irin
Òkúta ìpọ́n oníkẹ̀kẹ́Òkúta ìpọ́n oníkẹ̀kẹ́
Ìfá IrinÌfá Irin
12

Harden and temper the blade

Harden the blade in oil as in the connected spring-steel blueprint. Temper it to the knife colour given in the connected heat-treatment blueprint, not to spring blue.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Ilé Iná Alágbẹ̀dẹIlé Iná Alágbẹ̀dẹ
Ẹmú Alágbẹ̀dẹẸmú Alágbẹ̀dẹ
Òróró canolaÒróró canola
Ìbọ̀wọ́ wẹ́lídìnÌbọ̀wọ́ wẹ́lídìn
13

Hone both edges

Hone both ends keen on the sharpening stone.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Òkúta Ìpọ́nÒkúta Ìpọ́n
14

Fit and lock the blade

Swing the halves open. Lay the blade flat on the wall, its slot over the staple and its edges between the shoulders. Swing the locking half shut: the tongue enters the staple and the channel grips the blade. No tools needed.
15

Reverse or change the blade

Swing the locking half up, lift the blade off the staple and turn it end for end, or fit a new one. The spare end sits protected inside the handle.
16

What the patent says, and what is ours

The patent fixes the parts and how they lock: hinged shell halves, flat riveted pivot ends that hold by friction, a wall with shoulders and a pressed-out staple, a slotted double-ended blade, a springy channel with tongue and cut-outs. It gives no sizes, no metals and no blade making. All sizes, the mild steel, the rivet and the spring steel blade are our choices. Doniger's better-known X-Acto knives hold the blade in a round collet instead.

Àwọn ohun-èlò

3

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tó nílò

21

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