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Forged Ball-Peen Hammer
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Ṣẹ́dá nipasẹ̀

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11. Oṣù Kẹwà 2026NO
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Forged Ball-Peen Hammer

A 2-pound ball-peen hammer forged from 1½-inch square tool steel; a 6½-inch bar gives two heads. The eye is punched and drifted, the body fullered and rounded so it tapers both ways from a thick centre, then the face is drawn out and swaged and the ball peen rounded in a bottom swage. Both ends are hardened by dipping them in turn, with water dripping on the face, and tempered from the heat held around the eye: dark brown for the face, brown or purple for the peen. The eye cools last, which keeps it tough.
Ilọsíwájú
4–6 hours

Ìlànà

1

Mark and flatten

Mark the bar with a chisel and centre punch. Flatten the end before punching, or the hole grows too large.

Àwọn ohun èlò fún ìgbésẹ̀ yìí:

Ọ̀pá onígun mẹ́rin irin irinṣẹ́Ọ̀pá onígun mẹ́rin irin irinṣẹ́1 ẹyọ

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Igi Àmì ÀárínIgi Àmì Àárín
Ìlù gbígbónáÌlù gbígbóná
Ìléru alágbẹ̀dẹÌléru alágbẹ̀dẹ
Ìdí Alágbẹ̀dẹÌdí Alágbẹ̀dẹ
Òòlù ńláÒòlù ńlá
Ẹmú alágbẹ̀dẹẸmú alágbẹ̀dẹ
2

Punch and drift the eye

Punch the eye at the centre-punch mark, drive in a drift and hammer the bulged sides straight.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Ohun ìlu ihò gbígbónáOhun ìlu ihò gbígbóná
Ohun ìfẹ̀ ihòOhun ìfẹ̀ ihò
Òòlù Alágbẹ̀dẹÒòlù Alágbẹ̀dẹ
3

Shape the body

Rough out the shape with top and bottom fullers, then round the body at the anvil's rounded edge with a top fuller and set hammer, thicker at the centre than at the ends.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Fuller (irin ìgbẹ́ ìlà)Fuller (irin ìgbẹ́ ìlà)
Òòlù ìtẹ̀ èjìkáÒòlù ìtẹ̀ èjìká
4

Face and peen

Cut the head from the bar from four sides for a square end. Draw out the face, swage it and trim it with a hot chisel; then cut the peen to length, cut off its corners and round it in a bottom swage. Drive the drift through from both sides to taper the eye.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Ìlù gbígbónáÌlù gbígbóná
Àwòṣe ìsàlẹ̀ ìyíkáÀwòṣe ìsàlẹ̀ ìyíká
Ohun ìfẹ̀ ihòOhun ìfẹ̀ ihò
5

Grind

Grind both ends, rounding the edges of the face slightly so it does not mark hot work.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Ẹ̀rọ ìfá orí tábìlìẸ̀rọ ìfá orí tábìlì
6

Harden and temper

Heat the whole head slowly to the hardening heat and hold it by a tong jaw in the eye. Lower about 1½ inches of the face into water, then harden the peen the same way while water drips on the face, keeping the eye hot. Polish the ends; take the face to dark brown and the peen to brown or purple, then dip the ends alternately so the eye cools slowly.

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Ìléru alágbẹ̀dẹÌléru alágbẹ̀dẹ
Àpótí ìtutùÀpótí ìtutù
Ẹmú alágbẹ̀dẹẸmú alágbẹ̀dẹ
Aṣọ emeryAṣọ emery
7

Handle

Shave the handle stock to fit the eye tightly, drive the head on, saw a kerf in the handle's top and drive a glued hardwood wedge into it. Trim flush and oil the handle.

Àwọn ohun èlò fún ìgbésẹ̀ yìí:

Igi Líle Fún ÌdìmúIgi Líle Fún Ìdìmú1 ẹyọ
Gọ̀gọ̀ igi líleGọ̀gọ̀ igi líle1 ẹyọ
Òróró Ọ̀gbọ̀Òróró Ọ̀gbọ̀10 ml

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Ayùn onídìmú méjìAyùn onídìmú méjì
Ayùn ẹni méjìAyùn ẹni méjì
Ìdìmú TábìlìÌdìmú Tábìlì

Àwọn ohun-èlò

4

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tó nílò

18

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