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The Wire-Cutter Corkscrew: Shear the Wire, Drive the Screw, and the Same Turn Draws the Cork
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30. Oṣù Kẹsàn 2026NO
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The Wire-Cutter Corkscrew: Shear the Wire, Drive the Screw, and the Same Turn Draws the Cork

A champagne or mineral-water bottle needs its wire cut before the cork can be drawn, and a sardine can needs another tool again. William C. McGill of Cincinnati, Ohio, received US 61,080, dated 8 January 1867, for an "Instrument for Cutting Wires, Drawing Corks, &c." in which "the functions of a cork-extractor, a wire-cutter, and a can-opener, are combined in a single instrument". A handle carries a lance-like blade and a pivoted shearing bar with a notch that takes the bottle's wire; from its middle a left-hand threaded shank ends in a right-hand corkscrew, and a nut on the shank with a foot rests on the neck, "so that after the cork-screw has fully penetrated the cork, the continued rotation of the handle A operates to draw the cork". This rung works out the pull of the left-hand thread, with a work check, then makes the handle, shear and two-handed screw, and cuts a wire and draws a cork.
Ilọsíwájú
About 6 hours

Ìlànà

1

The left-hand thread's pull

Ń ṣí ìwé Jupyter…
2

A corkscrew that keeps turning

The embedded blueprint lets the cork climb the screw once a shoulder stops it. McGill instead stops a nut on the neck and draws the cork with a second, left-hand thread turned the same way.
3

Read US 61,080

"A notch, E, is provided in the edge of the bar C, which being engaged under the wire of a champagne or mineral-water bottle, holds the same, and enables said wire to be sheared off or severed between the blade B and the bar C, (see fig. 2.)" "Projecting rectangularly from the handle A, at its mid-length, is a left-hand screw-threaded shank, F, which terminates in a right-hand cork-screw, G. Tapped to fit the screw-threaded shank F, is a nut, H, from which proceeds a circular rest or foot, I, adapted to bear upon the neck of the bottle, so that after the cork-screw has fully penetrated the cork, the continued rotation of the handle A operates to draw the cork, (see fig. 1.)"
4

Make the instrument, cut a wire and draw a cork

**Handle and blade.** Cut 16 cm of 20 × 5 mm mild steel flat bar. Grind one end to a pointed blade with one sharp edge, and fit hardwood grips to the other end with rivets. **Shear.** Cut a 7 cm bar from the same flat bar, file a notch in one edge that takes the bottle's wire, and pivot it on a bolt beside the blade so its notched edge passes the blade's sharp edge as shears. **Screw.** Left-hand rod is not easily bought, so build McGill's pair mirrored: cut 10 cm of ordinary M8 threaded rod (right-hand) and drill the handle's middle to take one end, fixing it with a nut each side. Wind 2 mm steel wire into a LEFT-hand helix round a 6 mm rod, file a point, and silver-solder it into the rod's lower end. **Rest.** Bend a 15 cm strip of 20 × 3 mm flat bar into a bow about 7 cm tall and 3 cm wide, as McGill's drawing shows. Drill its top for the rod and silver-solder an M8 nut over the hole as the nut H. Silver-solder a large washer, its hole wider than the cork, across the bow's two feet as the rest I, leaving room inside the bow for the cork to rise. Run the nut onto the rod. **Test.** Fasten a corked beer bottle of water with wire over the cork. Hook the wire in the notch and squeeze to shear it. Wind the nut up, turn the handle anticlockwise to drive the left-hand helix into the cork, and keep turning the same way when the foot meets the neck: the cork rises.

Àwọn ohun èlò fún ìgbésẹ̀ yìí:

Ọ̀pá Pẹrẹsẹ Irin Pẹ́lẹ́Ọ̀pá Pẹrẹsẹ Irin Pẹ́lẹ́0.4 mítà
Ìṣù Igi LíleÌṣù Igi Líle1 ẹyọ
Àwọn pop rivetÀwọn pop rivet4 ẹyọ
Àkójọ bọ́ọ̀lù onígun mẹ́fàÀkójọ bọ́ọ̀lù onígun mẹ́fà1 ẹyọ
Ọ̀pá oníṣọ̀kanỌ̀pá oníṣọ̀kan0.1 mítà
Nọ́ọ̀tì Onígun Mẹ́fàNọ́ọ̀tì Onígun Mẹ́fà3 ẹyọ
Wáṣà PẹrẹsẹWáṣà Pẹrẹsẹ1 ẹyọ
Okun waya irinOkun waya irin0.4 mítà
Ìdìpọ̀ wẹ́là fadaka (rírọ̀/àárín/líle)Ìdìpọ̀ wẹ́là fadaka (rírọ̀/àárín/líle)1 ẹyọ
Ohun ìyọ́Ohun ìyọ́1 ẹyọ
Ìgò ọtí dígí aláwọ̀ ambàÌgò ọtí dígí aláwọ̀ ambà1 ẹyọ
Àwọn kọ́ọ̀kìÀwọn kọ́ọ̀kì1 ẹyọ
Okùn Irin Tí A Fi Sinkì BòOkùn Irin Tí A Fi Sinkì Bò0.3 mítà
OmiOmi0.5 lítà

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tí a nílò:

Ayùn IrinAyùn Irin
Àwọn Ìfá (Ìfá Ọwọ́)Àwọn Ìfá (Ìfá Ọwọ́)
Ìdìmú TábìlìÌdìmú Tábìlì
Ọ̀pá Iná PùróféènìỌ̀pá Iná Pùróféènì
Ẹ̀rọ Ìlùkòkò AláìlókùnẸ̀rọ Ìlùkòkò Aláìlókùn
Àkójọ Orí ÌlùkòkòÀkójọ Orí Ìlùkòkò
Ìdìpọ̀ ẹ̀rọ ìso pop rivetÌdìpọ̀ ẹ̀rọ ìso pop rivet
Ẹ̀mú Olórí YíkáẸ̀mú Olórí Yíká
Kọ́kọ́rọ́ tí a lè ṣàtúnṣeKọ́kọ́rọ́ tí a lè ṣàtúnṣe
Ìdìpọ̀ ìdídí ìgò wáìnìÌdìpọ̀ ìdídí ìgò wáìnì
Gílásì Ààbò Tí Ó Mọ́Gílásì Ààbò Tí Ó Mọ́
Ìbọ̀wọ́ Iṣẹ́ AwọÌbọ̀wọ́ Iṣẹ́ Awọ
5

An instrument that will not cut, drive or draw

Wire-cutter corkscrew troubleshooting.

Flow

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6

History and honest limits

**William C. McGill** of Cincinnati, Hamilton County, Ohio, received US 61,080, dated 8 January 1867. The lance blade B pierced sardine cans, the shearing bar C was double and embraced the blade, and its foot D rested on the can while the blade ripped it open. His claims cover the whole instrument, the combined corkscrew and can-opener, the can-opener, the can-opener and wire-cutter, and the right- and left-hand screws on one stem with the foot and handle. **Honest limits.** Flat bar, threaded rod and a wound helix stand in for his made-up instrument, with the two hands mirrored (right-hand shank, left-hand helix, turned anticlockwise), and the can-opening use is not tried here. The notebook ignores friction; its forces and lengths are examples. Your cut wire and drawn cork are the result.

Àwọn ohun-èlò

14

Àwọn irinṣẹ́ tó nílò

12

CC0 Àgbègbè Gbogbogbò

Blueprint yìí ti jáde lábẹ́ CC0. O lè ṣe àdàkọ, yí padà, pín, àti lò láìsí ìyọ̀ǹda.

Ṣàtìlẹ́yìn Olùṣẹ́dá nípa rírà àwọn ọjà nipasẹ̀ Blueprint wọn Ẹ̀san Olùṣẹ́dá tí àwọn Olùtajà gbé kalẹ̀, tàbí ṣẹ̀dá àtúnṣe tuntun ti Blueprint yìí kí o sì fi sínú Blueprint rẹ gẹ́gẹ́ bí ìsopọ̀ láti pín owó-wíwọlé.

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