Watering Can: the Tinplate Rose Watering-Can (Hasluck, 1907)

Cut a sheet 2 ft 1 in by 8 1/2 in. Wire one edge, sink it in the crease iron, round it and groove the seam; solder the seam inside. Cut the spout hole opposite the seam, 2 1/2 in from the bottom. Edge the bottom to fit, beat it up and solder it from inside.

Cut the spout in two pieces (Fig. 133), bend them to shape and solder the seams. Solder the larger piece into the body. Make it longer for plants out of reach, with an elbow for plants up high. Make the stay: a taper strip as long as the gap between can and spout, bent to a half-round section and soldered in.

Set out the rose body (Fig. 135): its diameter is the rose diameter x 4 / 3, so a 3 in rose needs a 4 in pattern, with lines a b at right angles. Bend it over a funnel stake and solder the seam. Hollow a disc for the front, with edges for capping on. Inside the hollow, mark circles and pierce them at intervals with a bradawl over a hard wood block; very fine for seedlings. Solder front and stem to the rose body. Several roses of different sizes are useful.

Hollow the top (Fig. 134), fit it to the body, wire its inner arc and solder it on. Cross handle: a strip about 1 3/4 in wide, wired with No. 12 B.W.G., bent to shape; cut two holes in the top with a small sharp chisel and solder the ends inside and on top. Back handle (Fig. 136): wire and bend it, solder a small boss under its upper part, and solder it opposite the spout with a thumb ring at the top. Solder three small hollowed studs under the bottom.

Clean with turpentine and whiting. Give two good coats of paint: red inside and green outside suit it.