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English
Sew-In Interfacing: Cotton Shrunk Overnight Before Cutting
The cloth basted inside a collar or coat front to give it body is only useful if it has been shrunk first: otherwise, as Butterick's New Dressmaker (1921) warns, it "will shrink on the first damp day and will draw in and wrinkle the coat". This is the book's sponging method: roll the cloth up with a damp muslin overnight, press it dry, then cut it by the pattern.
Butterick names soft canvas, cotton serge or cambric for wool, and butchers' linen, cambric or muslin for linen; ours is cotton muslin. The picture: the book's Ill. 102.
Utangiye
Overnight + 30 minutes
Amabwiriza
1
1
Choose the cloth
Choose the cloth
For wool: soft pliable canvas, cotton serge or cambric. For linen: butchers' linen, cambric or muslin. For silk: cotton serge, sateen or cambric. Ours: cotton muslin.
Ibikoresho by'iyi ntambwe:
Umwenda wa Musulini w'Ipamba1 igice2
2
Clip the selvedge
Clip the selvedge
Cut off the selvedge, or clip it at intervals, so it cannot pull the cloth as it shrinks.
Ibikoresho bikenewe:
Umukasi3
3
Lay it out
Lay it out
Lay the cloth face down on the table over an ironing blanket. Ours: the ironing board.
Ibikoresho bikenewe:
Urubaho rwo gutereraho ipasi4
4
Damp the sponging cloth
Damp the sponging cloth
Wet a strip of heavy unbleached muslin, as wide as your cloth and half as long, in cold water and wring it out.
Ibikoresho bikenewe:
Umwenda wa musulini
Amazi5
5
Fold and roll
Fold and roll
Spread it without wrinkles over half the cloth, fold the other half over it, and roll the two up tightly together.
Ibikoresho bikenewe:
Umwenda wa musulini6
6
Leave it overnight
Leave it overnight
Leave the roll overnight, covered with a piece of muslin and some newspapers to keep the moisture in.
Ibikoresho bikenewe:
Umwenda wa musulini
Ikinyamakuru (icyo gushyiramo)7
7
Unroll and press dry
Unroll and press dry
In the morning unroll it, pressing the cloth dry on the wrong side as you go.
Ibikoresho bikenewe:
Ipasi y'imyendaUrubaho rwo gutereraho ipasi8
8
Cut by the pattern
Cut by the pattern
Cut the interfacing by the garment pattern. For a strictly tailored collar, cut it 3/8 inch smaller than the pattern at all edges. Baste it to the wrong side of the garment.
Ibikoresho bikenewe:
UmukasiIbikoresho
1- 1 igiceUmwanya
Iki gishushanyo gikora
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