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Colander: a Tinplate Colander with Perforated Body and Bottom (Hasluck, 1907)
A tinsmith's colander for straining: a tapered tinplate body and a hollowed bottom, both punched full of holes, standing on a wired hoop, with two bow handles.
The body pattern is a ring segment: outer radius = top diameter, inner radius = bottom diameter, which gives sides at 60 degrees.
Source: Paul N. Hasluck, Tinplate Work (1907), pp. 50-51. Unknown: sizes, solder. Picture: Figs. 126-127 of the book.
Intermediate
Unknown
Instructions
1
1
Set out the body pattern
Set out the body pattern
Choose the top and bottom diameters. On tinplate, strike an arc with radius equal to the top diameter and, from the same centre, one equal to the bottom diameter (Fig. 127); the sides then slope at 60 degrees. Mark the rows of holes, add edges for a grooved seam and the wire, and cut it out.
Materials for this step:
Tinplate Sheet1 bodyTools needed:
Dividers
Scriber
Tin Snips2
2
Break, punch and planish the body
Break, punch and planish the body
'Break' the pattern through the rollers, turning it the opposite way each pass, so it won't crease when bent. Punch the holes on a hardwood block, then flatten and planish the burrs.
Tools needed:
Plate Bending Rolls
Sheet Metal Hole Punch
Hardwood Block
Planishing Hammer3
3
Seam and wire the body
Seam and wire the body
Set off the edges for a grooved seam, bend the body to shape and seam it. Solder the seam inside. Set off an edge on the wide end and wire it with No. 10 B.W.G. wire. If you like, raise a swage about 1 1/2 in below the wired edge: it stiffens the colander and looks better.
Materials for this step:
Iron Wire1 No. 10 B.W.G.
Tin-Lead Solder1 seamTools needed:
Wooden Mallet
Stake
Electric Soldering Iron
Flux4
4
Make and fit the bottom
Make and fit the bottom
Cut out the bottom, hollow it and edge it to fit the small end. Inside, mark circles from 1 in across at the centre, each 1 in wider than the last, out to the edge. Punch holes at short intervals round them and flatten the burrs on an upturned hollowing hammer. Solder the bottom on.
Materials for this step:
Tinplate Sheet1 bottomTin-Lead Solder1 bottomTools needed:
DividersTin SnipsSheet Metal Hole PunchPlanishing HammerElectric Soldering IronFlux5
5
Add the hoop and handles
Add the hoop and handles
Cut a strip 1 1/2 in wide, as long as the circumference of the bottom. Wire it with No. 10 B.W.G., round it, seam it and solder it on as the foot. Rivet a pair of bow handles opposite each other at the top.
Materials for this step:
Tinplate Sheet1 hoopIron Wire1 hoopTin-Lead Solder1 hoop
Handle2 bow handles
Iron Rivets1 number not givenTools needed:
Tin SnipsElectric Soldering IronFlux
Riveting Hammer6
6
Clean and scald
Clean and scald
Clean with turpentine and whiting, then polish with dry whiting. Before first use, steep it a short time in boiling water, as for any metal article for the kitchen.
Tools needed:
Turpentine
Calcium Carbonate - Whiting
WaterMaterials
5- 1 hoopPlaceholder
- 1 hoopPlaceholder
- 1 hoopPlaceholder
- 2 bow handlesPlaceholder
- 1 number not givenPlaceholder
Tools Required
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