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Hind Horseshoe: Round-Pointed Toe, No Seating, Nail Holes in the Front Two-Thirds (Lungwitz and Adams, Text-Book of Horseshoeing, 1913)
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13. November 2026NO
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Hind Horseshoe: Round-Pointed Toe, No Seating, Nail Holes in the Front Two-Thirds (Lungwitz and Adams, Text-Book of Horseshoeing, 1913)

A flat hind horseshoe from Lungwitz and Adams, A Text-Book of Horseshoeing (1913). It is made "in like manner" as the front shoe, but the branches are bent to a different curve, giving a round-pointed toe, the hoof side is not concaved, and the nail holes run further back. Fitting and nailing the shoe to the horse, calks and clips are not covered here.
Intermediate
8-15 minutes a pair, once practised

Instructions

1

Bar length and sizes

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2

Read Lungwitz and Adams

"The hind shoe is made in like manner, but the branches are not bent in a circle but given that form shown in Fig. 106."
3

Measure and cut the bar

Measure the hoof from the point of the toe to the buttress and its greatest width; add them for the bar length. Trace the outline on stiff paper if you want to keep it. Cut the bar.

Materials for this step:

Wrought Iron BarWrought Iron Bar1 piece

Tools needed:

Tape MeasureTape Measure
PencilPencil
Heavy Paper SheetsHeavy Paper Sheets
Blacksmith ForgeBlacksmith Forge
Hot Cut HardyHot Cut Hardy
Forge TongsForge Tongs
4

Bend the outer branch to the hind curve

Heat the bar white-hot just beyond its middle and bend it over the sledge head on the anvil face with the turning hammer, as for the front shoe, but bend the branch to the flatter, angled curve of his Fig. 106, not to a circle. The outer branch is made first, the right shoe first in a pair. Draw out the end with the sledge.

Tools needed:

Blacksmith ForgeBlacksmith Forge
Beak AnvilBeak Anvil
SledgeSledge
Rounding HammerRounding Hammer
Forge TongsForge Tongs
5

Bevel, flatten and shape

Bevel the branch on the horn, then flatten it. Bending the toe of a hind shoe backs up the inner edge and thins the outer, so hammer the shoe smooth and even. Shape it so the toe is round-pointed, "yet not too much so", as in his Fig. 116.

Tools needed:

Beak AnvilBeak Anvil
Rounding HammerRounding Hammer
Forge TongsForge Tongs
6

Round the inner edge and fuller

Concaving is not necessary: just round the inner edge of the web. Fuller the ground side as for the front shoe, to about two-thirds of the thickness.

Tools needed:

Beak AnvilBeak Anvil
FullerFuller
SledgeSledge
Rounding HammerRounding Hammer
Forge TongsForge Tongs
7

Stamp the nail holes

Stamp and pritchel the nail holes in the front two-thirds of the shoe, none at the toe: usually one more than a front shoe, seldom more than eight. Set each as far from the outer edge as the wall is thick; on a hind hoof the wall is nearly as thick at the quarters as at the toe.

Tools needed:

Beak AnvilBeak Anvil
Hot PunchHot Punch
PritchelPritchel
Rounding HammerRounding Hammer
Forge TongsForge Tongs
8

Make the second branch and finish

Make the inner branch the same way, turned to the left. Go over the outer edge on the horn and hammer the bearing surface smooth and level. Rough it out in two heats if you can.

Tools needed:

Blacksmith ForgeBlacksmith Forge
Beak AnvilBeak Anvil
Rounding HammerRounding Hammer
FullerFuller
Hot PunchHot Punch
PritchelPritchel
Forge TongsForge Tongs
9

Troubleshooting

Hind shoe troubleshooting.

Flow

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10

History and honest limits

From **A Text-Book of Horseshoeing**, by A. Lungwitz and John W. Adams, 11th edition, J. B. Lippincott, 1913 (Project Gutenberg 66786), chapter III F. His Fig. 116 shows a hind shoe with toe- and heel-calks; the calks and the toe-clip are not made here, as this chapter gives no method for forging heel-calks or drawing clips. Fitting and nailing are not covered. The metric figures are ours.

Materials

1

Tools Required

12

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