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Cigar-Box Hawaiian Ukulele: Spanish-Cedar Body, 11 in Neck and Frets by the Rule of Eighteen (Boy Mechanic, 1919)
S. H. Samuels's ukulele from The Boy Mechanic, Book 3 (1919), made for 30 cents: a Spanish-cedar cigar box rebuilt as a 9 x 6 in body with a 2-1/2 in sound hole, an 11 in cedar or mahogany neck, a notched hardwood bridge, and aluminium frets set by the old rule of 1/18 on a 13 in string length.
Intermediate
About 2 days
Instructions
1
1
Fret table
Fret table
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2
Read The Boy Mechanic, Book 3
Read The Boy Mechanic, Book 3
"The size of this instrument makes it especially suited to the cigar-box type of body construction."
3
3
Rebuild the box as the body
Rebuild the box as the body
Take a good Spanish-cedar cigar box about 2-1/2 by 6 by 9 in, soak off the paper without marring the wood, take it apart and trim edges with too many or broken nail holes. Fit the parts so top and bottom rest against the sides and ends, the ends between the sides (Fig. 2; drawn 9 by 6 by 2-1/4 in). Cut a 2-1/2 in hole in the top 3-3/4 in from the neck end. Make corner strips A 1/4 in square and strips B 1/4 by 5/8 by 4-1/2 in for under the top and on the bottom.
Materials for this step:
Cedar Board1 pieceTools needed:
Coping Saw
Leather Knife
Hand Plane
Compass
Ruler4
4
Make the neck, nut and bridge
Make the neck, nut and bridge
Cut the neck from Spanish cedar or mahogany, 11 in long, best in one piece (or with the peg extension and the wide body end glued on and doweled): head 4-1/2 in, fingerboard 6-5/8 in from the 1/8 in nut, 1-1/4 in wide at the nut and 1-3/4 in at the body, heel 7/16 in, section 7/8 by 2-1/4 in as drawn (Fig. 3). Make the nut D of mahogany or walnut with the grain lengthwise, notched for the strings as spaced. Make the bridge C of hard wood, 2-1/2 in long and 1/2 in high, hollowed under the notched edge, with a metal string contact.
Materials for this step:
Hardwood Board1 piece
Dowel Rod1 piece
Animal Glue1 piece
Brass Strip1 pieceTools needed:
Hand Saw
Coping Saw
Leather Knife
Files (Hand File)
Hand Drill5
5
Fret the fingerboard
Fret the fingerboard
Measure the string length from the bridge contact to the nut (13 in here). Set the first fret 1/18 of that distance from the nut, the second 1/18 of the distance from the first fret to the bridge, and so on (notebook). Cut grooves 1/8 in deep and drive in frets of aluminium (or brass) 1/16 by 3/16 in, tight enough to need no fastening.
Materials for this step:
Brass Strip1 pieceTools needed:
Hand Saw
Hacksaw
Files (Hand File)
Ruler
Pencil
Hammer6
6
Assemble and finish
Assemble and finish
Glue the body's end to the neck with animal glue, reinforced by screws, its upper edge parallel with the fingerboard and the fingerboard flush with the top. Glue the body (without the top) to that end; when dry, glue in the strips, bridge and finally the top. Clean, sandpaper, stain and shellac or varnish. Fit tuning pegs (bought or made) and a set of strings.
Materials for this step:
Animal Glue1 piece
Wood Screws1 piece
Sandpaper1 piece
Shellac Varnish1 piece
Tuning Pegs4 pieces
Ukulele Strings1 pieceTools needed:
Bar Clamp
Screwdriver - Flat
Wide Paint Brush7
7
Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting
Ukulele troubleshooting.
Flow
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8
History and honest limits
History and honest limits
From "A Homemade Hawaiian Ukulele" by S. H. Samuels, in **The Boy Mechanic, Book 3**, Popular Mechanics, 1919 (Project Gutenberg 71856; checked on the archive.org scan boymechanic0003unse, pp. 358-359). He gives the box as about 2-1/2 in deep; his drawing shows 2-1/4 in. He names no stain and no string type. The fret table, its equal-temperament comparison and the metric figures are ours.
Materials
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Tools Required
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