Dyeing Yellow-Brown with Sumac Leaves — The Tannin-Rich Dye of the Ancient Mediterranean

Use 100% WOF of dried sumac leaves. For 100 g of wool, weigh out 100 g of dried leaves. Harvest sumac leaves in late summer when tannin content peaks — the leaves should be fully mature and dark green. Dry on racks in shade for 1-2 weeks. Dried sumac leaves are brittle and papery. Commercially, ground sumac leaf (used in the tanning industry) is also available and works well, extracting faster than whole leaves.

Place the dried sumac leaves in a dye pot with 4 litres of warm water and soak for at least one hour. The water will turn a warm golden-brown within minutes as the tannins dissolve rapidly. Sumac releases dye faster than most bark or wood sources because the leaves are thin and have a large surface area relative to their mass.

Bring the pot to a gentle simmer (80°C) and hold for 30 minutes. Stir occasionally. The liquid will deepen to a rich amber-brown. Sumac leaves extract fully within 30 minutes — longer simmering does not significantly increase colour depth. Do not boil, as excessive heat can produce muddy tones.

Strain the dye liquor through a fine mesh strainer into a clean pot. Press the leaves to extract all remaining liquid. Leaf fragments left in the dye bath will tangle with wool — strain thoroughly. The strained liquor should be a warm, clear amber-brown.

Pre-wet wool in lukewarm water for 15 minutes. Lower it into the sumac dye bath at room temperature. Slowly raise to 80°C and hold for 45 minutes. Turn gently every 10 minutes. Sumac is a substantive dye — tannins bond directly to protein fibres without a mordant. However, alum-mordanted wool gives a warmer, more golden tone. Un-mordanted wool gives a cooler, greyer brown. Both are permanent.

Turn off the heat and let the wool cool in the dye bath overnight. Remove, squeeze gently, and rinse in lukewarm water until the runoff is mostly clear. The final colour is a warm golden-brown to tan — similar in tone to cutch but lighter and more golden. Sumac-dyed wool has excellent washfastness due to the strong tannin-fibre bond. Lightfastness is good. Dry in shade.