NGHỆ THUẬT
LÀM ĐẸP VÀ SỨC KHỎE
THỦ CÔNG
VĂN HÓA VÀ LỊCH SỬ
GIẢI TRÍ
MÔI TRƯỜNG
THỰC PHẨM VÀ ĐỒ UỐNG
KỸ THUẬT NGƯỢC
KHOA HỌC
THỂ THAO
CÔNG NGHỆ
THIẾT BỊ ĐEO
The Double Tracing Wheel: The Pattern Line and the Cutting Line at Once
A paper pattern gives the sewing line, but the cloth must be cut wider to leave a seam allowance. Marking that second line by eye makes it uneven, and measuring it at every point is slow.
Daniel W. Moody of San Francisco received US 226,622, dated 20 April 1880 (filed 19 January 1880), for a tracing wheel with "two parallel toothed or star wheels", so that "when one of the wheels is made to traverse the desired pattern the other will form a line upon which the goods are to be cut, so as to give the necessary width for the seam".
This rung works out how much cloth a seam allowance adds to a panel, then marks and cuts a piece with a double line.
Cơ bản
About 2 hours
Hướng dẫn
1
1
Cloth added by the allowance
Cloth added by the allowance
Đang tải sổ tay Jupyter…
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2
What the second line is for
What the second line is for
The embedded blueprint explains the seam allowance itself. Moody's second wheel marks it.
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3
Read US 226,622
Read US 226,622
"When a pattern has been traced by this wheel it is necessary to mark out a line for cutting, which must be at such a distance from the pattern-line as will insure sufficient material to form the seam. This is either done in an irregular manner, without measurement, or sometimes by careful measurements at frequent intervals and marking to indicate the points and guide the cutter."
"The distance between the wheels might be made adjustable, if desired; but I have found that in practice a fixed distance of about five-eighths of an inch will give the proper width for all seams."
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4
Trace a pattern and its cutting line
Trace a pattern and its cutting line
Draw a simple pattern piece on kraft paper and cut it out. Pin it to the cloth over a sheet of carbon paper, carbon side down.
Run the tracing wheel round the paper's edge to transfer the sewing line. Then mark a second line 16 mm (5/8 inch) outside it: with a double wheel in one pass, or with the single wheel guided along the ruler.
Cut on the outer line and sew on the inner one. Measure the finished allowance at several points with the tape measure and see how even it is. Compare the cloth used with the notebook.
Vật liệu cho bước này:
Vải bông (mỏng)1 cái
Cuộn giấy kraft (nâu)1 cái
Giấy than1 cái
Kim ghim khâu10 cáiCông cụ cần thiết:
Bánh xe sang dấu
Kéo cắt vải
Thước kẻ
Thước dây cuộn
Phấn thợ may5
5
A traced line that is faint, wanders or tears
A traced line that is faint, wanders or tears
Tracing wheel troubleshooting.
Flow
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6
History and honest limits
History and honest limits
**Daniel W. Moody** of San Francisco filed US 226,622 on 19 January 1880; it is dated 20 April 1880. He notes the handle, shank and frame may be made in one piece of malleable iron or brass.
**Honest limits.** The notebook uses rectangles; curved pieces and corners change the figure a little. 5/8 inch is Moody's figure, not a rule for every seam. The panel sizes are examples. Your measured allowance is the measurement.
Vật liệu
4- 1 cáiTạm thời
- Tạm thời
- 1 cáiTạm thời
- 10 cáiTạm thời
Công cụ yêu cầu
5- Tạm thời
- Tạm thời
- Tạm thời
- 1 vendor sell this, none ship to you yetTạm thời
- Tạm thời
Blueprint liên quan
Các blueprint này chia sẻ kiến thức — kỹ thuật, vật liệu hoặc nguyên tắc
CC0 Phạm vi công cộng
Bản thiết kế này được phát hành theo CC0. Bạn tự do sao chép, sửa đổi, phân phối và sử dụng cho bất kỳ mục đích nào mà không cần xin phép.
Hỗ trợ nhà sáng tạo bằng cách mua sản phẩm qua bản thiết kế, nơi họ nhận Hoa hồng nhà sáng tạo do nhà bán hàng đặt, hoặc tạo phiên bản mới và kết nối trong bản thiết kế riêng để chia sẻ doanh thu.