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Jig Borer
Penny

Criado por

Penny

22. agosto 2026DK
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Jig Borer

Every machine so far in this batch has been about the SHAPE of a cut. The jig borer is about its POSITION. A hole in the wrong place ruins a part just as thoroughly as a hole of the wrong size, and until the twentieth century locating holes accurately meant careful marking out, a centre punch, and an experienced hand. The jig borer replaces all of it with two precisely measured slideways: dial in the coordinates, bore the hole, and it lands where the drawing says to within a few microns. It arrived because gauge blocks made length itself measurable to that accuracy, so a machine could finally be built that held the standard rather than approximated it. This is where machine tools became instruments.
Avançado
5 hours 30 minutes

Instruções

1

Build two square slideways

Two axes, and their squareness to each other is the machine's accuracy.

  1. Build a base 350 × 350 mm from 18 mm ply with aluminium angle ways for the X axis.
  2. Build a cross slide on top for the Y axis, its ways at 90 degrees to the first.
  3. Fix both with M5 × 30 socket head cap screws × 12, M5 flat washers × 24 and M5 hex nuts × 12.
  4. Set the squareness by the reversal method and confirm it twice.

Out-of-square axes make a distinctive error. Positions along either axis alone stay correct, but any hole needing both coordinates lands off by an amount proportional to how far out you are and how far along both axes you have travelled. So it passes a simple test and fails a real part — which is why squareness is checked by reversal rather than assumed.

This is the same reversal test used on the angle plate in batch 69. That blueprint made it a technique; here it is the machine's acceptance test.

Materiais para este passo:

Baltic Birch Plywood (3/4 inch, 24x30)Baltic Birch Plywood (3/4 inch, 24x30)1 folha
Aluminum Angle (6063, 1x1x36 inch)Aluminum Angle (6063, 1x1x36 inch)2 peças
M5 Flat WasherM5 Flat Washer24 peças
M5 Hex NutM5 Hex Nut12 peças

Ferramentas necessárias:

Jigsaw (Variable Speed, Orbital)Jigsaw (Variable Speed, Orbital)
Cordless Drill/Driver (20V)Cordless Drill/Driver (20V)
Drill Bit Set (29-Piece, HSS)Drill Bit Set (29-Piece, HSS)
Allen/Hex Key SetAllen/Hex Key Set
Combination Square (12-inch)Combination Square (12-inch)
Digital Caliper 6-InchDigital Caliper 6-Inch
2

Measure position with gauge blocks, not with a dial

The historically correct method, and the reason the machine could exist.

  1. Fit a fixed stop at one end of each axis and a movable stop on each slide.
  2. Set a distance by placing a stack of gauge blocks between the two stops.
  3. Wind the slide until it just closes on the stack, then lock it.
  4. Remove the blocks and bore.
  5. For the next hole, change the stack by the required increment.

This is why the jig borer follows gauge blocks and not the other way round. Johansson's blocks made length available to a workshop to a fraction of a micron. A leadscrew has pitch error, wear and backlash; a stack of blocks has none of those, so setting position against blocks transfers the standard's accuracy directly into the machine. The earliest jig borers were built exactly this way.

Wring the blocks properly — slide them together under light pressure until they adhere. A stack that is merely stacked has films of air and oil between the faces, and each joint adds error.

Materiais para este passo:

Aluminum Flat Bar (1x1/4 inch, 36-inch)Aluminum Flat Bar (1x1/4 inch, 36-inch)1 peça
M5 Cup Point Set ScrewM5 Cup Point Set Screw4 peças

Ferramentas necessárias:

Digital Caliper 6-InchDigital Caliper 6-Inch
Allen/Hex Key SetAllen/Hex Key Set
File SetFile Set
Cordless Drill/Driver (20V)Cordless Drill/Driver (20V)
3

Build the boring head

A single-point tool on an adjustable radius, so one head bores any diameter.

  1. Mount a vertical spindle in two 608 bearings, with a Morse-taper socket or a plain 16 mm bore.
  2. Make a boring head: a block carrying a tool bit that can slide radially, adjusted by a screw.
  3. Lock the slide with two M5 cup point set screws.
  4. Fit a scale so the radial offset can be set and repeated.

Boring rather than drilling, for a specific reason. A drill follows its own point and will wander into a pre-existing dimple or a hard spot, so its position is only as good as the centre punch. A single-point boring tool cuts on one side and follows the SPINDLE'S axis, not the hole's — so it corrects position rather than inheriting it. That is why the machine is a jig BORER and not a jig driller.

Drill a smaller pilot first, then bore. The drill removes the bulk quickly and inaccurately; the boring head then puts the hole exactly where it belongs.

Materiais para este passo:

Ball Bearing - Non-Flanged (8mm Bore, 22mm OD)Ball Bearing - Non-Flanged (8mm Bore, 22mm OD)2 peças
Aluminum Round Bar (6061, 1-inch x 12-inch)Aluminum Round Bar (6061, 1-inch x 12-inch)1 peça
M5 Cup Point Set ScrewM5 Cup Point Set Screw2 peças
Baltic Birch Plywood (3/4 inch, 24x30)Baltic Birch Plywood (3/4 inch, 24x30)1 folha

Ferramentas necessárias:

Cordless Drill/Driver (20V)Cordless Drill/Driver (20V)
Drill Bit Set (29-Piece, HSS)Drill Bit Set (29-Piece, HSS)
File SetFile Set
Bench Vise (4-inch, Cast Iron)Bench Vise (4-inch, Cast Iron)
Allen/Hex Key SetAllen/Hex Key Set
Digital Caliper 6-InchDigital Caliper 6-Inch
4

Bore a hole pattern and measure position, not size

The acceptance test for a positioning machine is a pattern, checked between centres.

  1. Set out a pattern of four holes on a 100 mm square.
  2. Bore all four, setting each coordinate with gauge blocks.
  3. Measure the centre distances of all four sides and both diagonals.
  4. Compare against the nominal 100 mm and 141.42 mm.
  5. Now mark out and drill the same pattern by hand and measure it the same way.
The diagonals are the revealing measurement: they catch squareness error that the sides alone hide. Compare the two methods' spreads — the hand-marked pattern is typically out by a few tenths of a millimetre, the bored one by far less. That gap is the whole reason the machine was invented, and it is why jig borers were kept in temperature-controlled rooms.

Materiais para este passo:

Aluminium Plate (10mm)Aluminium Plate (10mm)1 peça

Ferramentas necessárias:

Digital Caliper 6-InchDigital Caliper 6-Inch
Combination Square (12-inch)Combination Square (12-inch)
Center PunchCenter Punch
Cordless Drill/Driver (20V)Cordless Drill/Driver (20V)
5

Where the chain ends up, and history

The jig borer was developed in Switzerland in the 1910s — SIP and Dixi are the names associated with it — for the watch and instrument industries, where hole position in a movement plate decides whether a mechanism works at all. It spread to toolmaking, where jigs and fixtures need holes located far more accurately than the parts they will produce.

It closes the loop this batch opened. The 1817 planer needed a hand-scraped flat to be built at all. Each machine after it was built using the surfaces and accuracy of the ones before, and produced better ones in turn. The jig borer is the point at which that ratchet reaches instrument accuracy: a machine tool built to metrological standards, capable of making the jigs that make ordinary parts accurate. Machine tools stopped being tools that cut and became instruments that measure while cutting.

Why it needed the metrology first. Gauge blocks, the dividing head, the sine bar and the surface plate all had to exist before a machine could be built to this standard, because you cannot manufacture an accuracy you cannot measure. That ordering is not incidental — it is why the metrology batch had to come before this one, and why measurement generally precedes manufacture in every era.

What replaced it: CNC machining centres with ballscrews and linear scales do the same job with the same coordinate logic, and the numerical control that makes them possible is the direct descendant of dialling in coordinates by hand. The jig borer taught manufacturing to think in coordinates, and everything since has been a refinement of that habit.

Materiais

9

Ferramentas necessárias

9
Total estimado
R$14.00

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