Ubufatanye
UBUHANZI
UBWIZA N'UBUZIMA
UBUKORIKORI
UMUCO N'AMATEKA
IMYIDAGADURO
IBIDUKIKIJE
IBIRIBWA N'IBINYOBWA
UBWUBATSI BUSUBIRA INYUMA
UBUMENYI
SIPORO
IKORANABUHANGA
IBYAMBARWA
Goatskin Leather Tanned with Sumac, the Morocco Way
Morocco leather is goatskin tanned with sumac: light, supple and fine-grained. Andrew Ure (1839) gives the method: bran and lime to loosen the hair, the skin scraped clean, then sewn into a bag, grain outside, and floated in sumac liquor for a day. Oiled and curried, it takes the pebbled grain used for gloves and book covers.
The picture: early 18th-century calf bindings inlaid with panels of coloured morocco.
Hejuru
Two to three weeks
Amabwiriza
1
1
Soak in bran water
Soak in bran water
Steep the skins a few days in water with bran stirred in, until it ferments. Work them on the beam, soak 12 hours in fresh water and rinse.
Ibikoresho by'iyi ntambwe:
Uruhu rubisi rw'ihene6 ibice
Umuhumbeke w'ingano2 kg
Amazi100 litiroIbikoresho bikenewe:
Ikibindi cy'imbaho
Igiti cyo gukamuraho uruhu2
2
Lime and dehair
Lime and dehair
Steep them in weak lime water until the hair pulls out easily. Scrape the hair off on the beam with the back of the fleshing knife and wash them in running water.
Ibikoresho by'iyi ntambwe:
Ishwagara yazimye2 kgAmazi60 litiroIbikoresho bikenewe:
Ikibindi cy'imbahoIgiti cyo gukamuraho uruhu
Icyuma cyo kuvana inyama ku ruhu
Uturindantoki tw'ikawusu3
3
Flesh and clean out the lime
Flesh and clean out the lime
Shave off flesh and fat with the fleshing knife and trim the edges. Rub the grain hard with a flat stone to press out lime, then a night and a day in a fresh bran bath.
Ibikoresho by'iyi ntambwe:
Umuhumbeke w'ingano1 kgAmazi50 litiroIbikoresho bikenewe:
Icyuma cyo kuvana inyama ku ruhuIgiti cyo gukamuraho uruhu
Ibuye ryo gutyaza rya grit 1000Ikibindi cy'imbaho4
4
Sew into bags
Sew into bags
Sew each skin edgewise into a bag with the grain outside, leaving a small opening.
Ibikoresho by'iyi ntambwe:
Udodo w'igitani20 mIbikoresho bikenewe:
Urushinge rwo kudoda5
5
Tan in sumac
Tan in sumac
Fill each bag with strong sumac liquor and close it; float the bags in a tub of the same liquor and keep them moving by hand for four hours. Drain, refill and tan again: about 24 hours in all.
Ibikoresho by'iyi ntambwe:
Amababi ya sumaki (yumye)5.4 kgAmazi60 litiroIbikoresho bikenewe:
Ikibindi cy'imbaho
Umunzani w'ibiro6
6
Open, rinse and dry
Open, rinse and dry
Unstitch the skins, rinse them, beat them soft, drain them and hang them to dry. While still damp, sponge a thin film of linseed oil on the grain so they stay glossy and do not go horny.
Ibikoresho by'iyi ntambwe:
Amavuta y'Ubudodo0.2 litiroIbikoresho bikenewe:
Isiponje7
7
Curry and grain
Curry and grain
Thin the flesh side where needed and smooth the damp skin. Then work it on the flesh side with a cork-faced board, in several directions, to raise the pebbled grain (Ure: the curriers' pommel faced with cork).
Ibikoresho bikenewe:
Icyuma cyo kuvana inyama ku ruhu
Urupapuro rw'ikizibo8
8
Sumach for the batch
Sumach for the batch
Gupakira ikaye ya Jupyter…
9
9
Limits
Limits
The process and the sumac rate are Ure's; we leave out his dyeing (cochineal, iron, indigo) and give the undyed leather. Bath volumes are ours.
Ibikoresho
7- 6 ibiceUmwanya
- Umwanya
- 270 litiroUmwanya
- Umwanya
- 20 mUmwanya
- Umwanya
- 0.2 litiroUmwanya
Ibikoresho bikenewe
9- Umwanya
- Umwanya
- Umwanya
- Umwanya
- Umwanya
- Umwanya
- Umwanya
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