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Threaded-Stud Rubber-Head Hammer: Heads Screw Onto the Body's Own Studs and Lock the Handle's Nail In (Dicks, 1951)
Byron R. Dicks of Lebanon, Indiana, received US 2,566,517, dated 4 September 1951, for a hammer made cheaply from bar stock with heads of any material. Each end of the cylindrical body has a threaded stud turned in one piece with it. Each head has a threaded socket chamfered at its mouth, so it bears on the body's flat end face in a true ring and the stud only connects. A nail driven down a bore beside the stud locks the handle. Its head sits in a counterbore, and the screwed-on head keeps it from ever coming out.
We give it two rubber heads, from his list of materials. The sizes are ours.
Intermediate
About 2 days
Instructions
1
1
Where the locking nail goes
Where the locking nail goes
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2
Read US 2,566,517
Read US 2,566,517
"The nail when driven home obviously forms its own hole through the handle." "Obviously application of the head 15 retains the nail against loss if the same ever became somewhat loose in the handle."
3
3
Turn the body 12
Turn the body 12
From 38 mm steel round bar turn a body 80 mm long between end faces cut truly square, with a stud 14 16 mm across and 18 mm long standing out of each end; cut M16 threads on them with the die. Drill a 20 mm eye 11 through the middle, square to the axis, in a V-block, and flare its ends a little with a half-round file.
Materials for this step:
Mild Steel Round Bar1 piece
Cutting Oil1 pieceTools needed:
Metal Lathe
Lathe Chuck 3-Jaw
Lathe Cutting Tool
Parting Tool
Tap and Die Set
Die Stock
Bench Vise
Drill Press
V-Block
Drill Bit Set
File Set
Digital Caliper 6-Inch
Safety Glasses4
4
Bore for the locking nail 21
Bore for the locking nail 21
Scribe a line across one end face along the eye's direction. Centre-punch it 13 mm from the centre and drill 4.2 mm parallel to the axis, down into the eye, and counterbore the mouth 7 mm across and 4 mm deep for the nail's head.
Tools needed:
Scriber
Center Punch
Drill Press
V-Block
Drill Bit Set
Digital Caliper 6-Inch5
5
Rubber heads 15
Rubber heads 15
For each head saw an M16 coupling nut to 25 mm and chamfer one end's thread 1 mm with a countersink: the socket 16 with its chamfered mouth 18. Cut 4 mm rubber discs 50 mm across: seven with a hole just round the nut and five solid. Bond them up round the nut with contact cement, the chamfered end flush with the head's inner face, and the solid discs at the striking face; clamp overnight and trim round.
Materials for this step:
Hex Nut2 pieces
Natural Rubber Sheet1 piece
Contact Cement1 pieceTools needed:
Hacksaw
Bench Vise
Countersink Drill Bit Set
Drill Press
Compass
Craft Knife
Bar Clamp6
6
Handle, nail and heads
Handle, nail and heads
Turn an ash handle 300 mm long to drive tight into the eye. Drive it home, then drive a 4 mm nail 23 down the bore through the handle until its head sits in the counterbore below the end face. Screw the rubber heads onto the studs until each bears hard on its end face.
Materials for this step:
Hardwood Board1 piece
Nails1 pieceTools needed:
Wood Lathe
Lathe Tool Set (HSS)
Ball Peen Hammer7
7
Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting
Threaded-stud hammer troubleshooting.
Flow
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8
8
History and honest limits
History and honest limits
**Byron R. Dicks** of Lebanon, Indiana, US 2,566,517, dated 4 September 1951, filed 25 March 1947. He claimed a cylindrical body "having flat faces at both ends disposed at true right angles to the axis", "threaded extensions integral with said body", detachable heads with threaded sockets "in face to face contact" with the body, a transverse handle opening, a longitudinal bore offset from the extensions through it, and "a safety pin" in the bore sealed in by the heads. His heads were turned from bar or made of any of the materials he lists, rubber among them; ours are rubber discs bonded round a threaded steel insert. He gives no sizes; every size here is ours.
Materials
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Tools Required
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